Kick Starter Failure

The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas
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ByTheLake
Posts: 730
Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:42 pm

Kick Starter Failure

Post by ByTheLake »

When my Benly restoration was completed in September 2012, I was looking forward to never seeing the inside of the engine again. Rebuilding the engine was fun, but I have more fun riding the bike. However, after roughly 650 miles of riding, the kick starter failed to engage.

The bike started easily with the electric starter, but I was concerned that there could be metal parts loose in the crankcase. I certainly didn't want pieces of metal mixing with the transmission gears. That meant that the engine had to come apart.

I suspected that the ratchet pawl had come apart, or that the spring had broken. When I got the engine apart, it was obvious that the spring had simply come out of position. See the picture below, which shows the spring out of position (left), and after I put it back into the hole.

Image

Before I reassemble the engine, I want to ensure that this spring stays in place. Any suggestions? Maybe a silicone-based sealer in the hole?
Spokes
Posts: 1575
Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:40 pm

Post by Spokes »

Bummer about tearing the engine down for a spring. Fortunately removing the bottom half to get at the kick start shaft avoids a complete tear down.

I like JB Weld products. I would try http://www.rakuten.com/prod/j-b-weld-82 ... 7AodDWcAwA

I think silicon would degrade over time in the engine.
ByTheLake
Posts: 730
Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:42 pm

Post by ByTheLake »

Spokes wrote:Bummer about tearing the engine down for a spring. Fortunately removing the bottom half to get at the kick start shaft avoids a complete tear down.

I like JB Weld products. I would try http://www.rakuten.com/prod/j-b-weld-82 ... 7AodDWcAwA

I think silicon would degrade over time in the engine.
Thanks - I'll take a look at this.

I agree - just needed to remove the bottom half of the engine, which of course required the removal of the side cases, the alternator housing from the left side, the starter from the front, the clutch/oil pump from the right side, etc. So many pieces seemed to span the top/bottom cases. Oh well.
ByTheLake
Posts: 730
Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:42 pm

Post by ByTheLake »

I've taken the path of applying JB Weld High Temp to the kick starter ratchet pawl. I cleaned the hole with a solvent to remove oil, so this should stay in place. I suspect that this fix will keep the spring from bouncing out of place again.

Image
Steverinomeiste
Posts: 223
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:52 pm

Post by Steverinomeiste »

ByTheLake:
Did it fail while kickstarting, or did it just fail?
Steve
ByTheLake
Posts: 730
Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2011 1:42 pm

Post by ByTheLake »

It failed back in July of last year - I don't really remember the exact moment, but the little bike always started in 1-2 kicks. I rarely used the electric starter, but that option always worked, too.

I've never had to repeatedly kick the starter - it's been an eager engine following the rebuild/restoration.
Larzfromarz
Posts: 620
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:47 pm

Post by Larzfromarz »

I would have safety wired it but missed the discussion.... :o
Steverinomeiste
Posts: 223
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:52 pm

Post by Steverinomeiste »

I think I prefer the electric start because swinging my foot and the kickstarter so close to my muffler just makes me nervous.
Steverinomeiste
Posts: 223
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:52 pm

Post by Steverinomeiste »

And why do so many mufflers wind up with kickstarter rash? It doesn't seem like contact is even mechanically possible unless something is way out of whack?
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