Starter, Magneto & Points Assembly

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:38 pm

Putting all of these parts together requires a lot of parts at one time. Don't tighten down any one part until your almost done. You should then go back and tighten things. First put the starter sprocket (with the new seal) on the crankshaft and then the chain. Don't forget the sprocket retaining bracket which is fastened on with a screw near the front of the sprocket. It's a tricky one to remember and can easily be lost in your workspace.

Next double check the starter clutch, rollers and springs as you slowly place the magneto on the crank. Here is a pic of a Benly 150 magneto/starter clutch compared to a CB72 magneto/starter assembly. The Honda CB72 magneto is larger and shows the indexing holes in different locations. The CA95 unit is on the left side of the engine and the CB72 starter clutch and magneto is located on the right side.

The key Mr. Honda engineered to align the magneto is a horrible design. Being crescent shaped it is not easy to slide the magneto on at all. Once on, place the pickup ring around the Benly magneto and carefully route the wires at the same time. On most every old Honda motorcycle it is easy to remove the magneto by just removing the side case cover (3 screws and it's accessible). But to re-install the magneto you must remove the entire engine case cover and magneto pickup ring (many more screws). Why would you want to remove the magneto anyways? Haha! The starter clutch my friends! Yep that starter clutch is prone to breaking when you use the electric start. The springs can dry up and break, the rollers can wear down and the starter clutch ring can fracture causing the unit to be useless.

Back on the current subject, sprocket, starter clutch, magneto, coil ring, carefully place fragile wires where they need to go. After assembling this all go back and then finally tighten the screws down and the bolt on the end of the crank. After all this you are then ready to put on the engine cover and adjust the points.

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:59 pm

Also note that the plate that attaches directly on the outside of the magneto must be inspected. This is the mechanism that automatically advances the ignition timing as the engine spins faster. When the assembly spins the springs release the fingers which allow the center drum to rotate which, in turn (hehe), changes the timing. Make absolutely sure that these parts are clear of debris and are oiled. You should be able to rotate the center drum and watch the springs and actuators (fingers) move without too much resistance. If they are dry and hard to move then engine performance will suffer.

I wonder if I have a better picture... yep of course, here it is:

I will overlook Mr. Honda's decision to use a crescent shaped magneto key design as I am thankful for his use of automatic ignition advance. I wonder if this design was his idea... doubt it.

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 11:33 pm

Once the left engine cover has been put on I carefully installed the points. To get the least resistance possible here I cut back the condenser wire which is clamped by the spring. Then I used some rough paper to put in and out of the contacts to clean them. The gap should be set to .014" at the widest or the duration. Mine were worn past the point of obvious adjustment. If you look a closely you can realize that there is more than one adjustment to the assembly. The whole points and condenser plate rotates for adjustment and also the mount for the contact pivot will adjust. Use the combination to set yours accordingly. This is pretty basic stuff but really important in order to get a nice clean spark.

DBowers · Post by **DBowers** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 1:51 pm

How did you remove this magneto? I can not get mine to budge and I have asked this question a couple times and nothing seems to work. Did you pull it with a gear puller or some special tool? Thanks for the help.

ByTheLake · Post by **ByTheLake** » Sat Nov 26, 2011 2:41 pm

By 'magneto' I'm assuming that you're referring to the alternator rotor? Here's what worked for me. I hope I'm answering the question you're asking.

First, if you need a parts and service manual to download, let me know.

When I got to this step in the engine tear-down, I assumed that I'd need a puller for this, but then I noticed the internal threads. Remove the bolt (#12 in the illustration below).

I'm not a genius with thread sizes, but I got out my metric thread gauge to match the internal threads on the shaft as "1.5". I then went to the hardware store and bought the fattest 1.5 threaded bolt I could, pictured below.

I got lucky, because the fattest 1.5 bolt matched perfectly. I lubed the bolt with lots of grease, then started working the bolt in. The rotor popped off without any argument. Watch for the crescent key, since it may pop loose.

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.

DBowers · Post by **DBowers** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:11 pm

Thanks for the suggestions. I can't seem to get the spark advancer free from the dynamo? I have taken the bolt out as you suggested,however nothing seems to free up at this time? Thank you for your help and patience.

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:52 pm

I get crazy on them with prybars and big hammers. Some of those things are on there so tight it's ridiculous. It's too tight to get a puller on them unless it's specially made for this type. I have seen them in the past but I've never had the luxury of owning one.

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:45 pm

The spark advance is actually pressed in. Use a gasket scraper or a scrap kitchen butter knife and wedge between the flywheel and the back of the spark advance. Tap one side and rotate about a 1/4 turn and repeat until it loosens up.

DBowers · Post by **DBowers** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 4:36 pm

Thanks guys, this is begining to make sense! Any suggestions on where to look on Ebay for pistons,rings and gasket sets. Is there a web you fellows like?

Sam Green · Post by **Sam Green** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:27 am

Just do an Ebay search for Honda CA95 piston rings.
C95 and CB95 rings are the same.

Sam.

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:12 am

Stop giving out all these secrets SAM! Now the price of piston rings and gaskets are going to go up once people realize they are the same.

kartgreen · Post by **kartgreen** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 5:48 pm

Check with Ohio Cycle .com --440 647-2357. He should be able to help you . His website shows an inventory but it's constantly chainging . No matter you do have to call and if he has the parts he'll give you a total and you have to send a money order ,he'll than send you your parts .