Basic Battery Question

Jetblackchemist · Post by **Jetblackchemist** » Fri May 06, 2011 6:06 am

with a regulator/rectifier combo they should be just fine. It would seem that switching to LEDs would cause the overcharging/discharges a lot faster and more frequently since they require so little current, at least thats my been up all night insomniac theory.

bluerider · Post by **bluerider** » Fri May 06, 2011 9:05 am

I think adding a regulator might be a smart thing to do regardless of which battery is run. What regulator would you suggest adding and do you have a wiring diagram for where you would add it in the system. I am pretty good at understanding a wiring diagram but I not so good at calculating loads and demands.

Robin

Jetblackchemist · Post by **Jetblackchemist** » Fri May 06, 2011 11:03 am

I'd suggest a 6v rectifier/regulator combo and just tie it in where the old rectifier hooked in, you shouldn't have to worry about load calculations, since the regulator should keep it with in proper range so it doesnt discharge or over load. Under the bulb post we are currently discussing the 6v to 12v swap if you have yet to see it

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Sat May 14, 2011 9:28 pm

I spoke with a battery store guy yesterday about the SLA Sealed Lead Acid batteries. He says they seem do be going great for people that don't need higher cranking amps. They are fine to use as long as you don't need to turn over a larger streetbike engine. They seem to work great for people who use them to power classic bikes.

I just want to stress that I would not use a high amp style charge on any sealed battery! I saw a 12v motorcycle battery melt in front of me once and that taught me not to every use higher amperage on a smaller battery - or any battery. I am a fan of low amp battery chargers nowadays. Bad things happen if you are in a hurry anyways.

Here is a little info I was just reading on the SLA topic:
http://www.upcraft.it/archives/528
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showt ... p?t=351760

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Sat May 14, 2011 9:56 pm

Oh I actually had a pretty hefty size 12V SLA melt down under my desk a while ago. They were in a backup power supply (UPS) for my computers and they expired and melted down. They leaked acid out of their seams and everything while still being powered in the unit that was plugged into the wall socket. I have my UPS placed on top of a flat piece of wood for this very reason just in case. Good thing I did too. I just unplugged the unit and migrated it to the garage for a baking soda bath and battery replacement. So I consider the batteries harmless compared to a conventional lead plate type lead acid battery.

Jetblackchemist · Post by **Jetblackchemist** » Sun May 15, 2011 2:25 am

You sir are indeed right about that...volts tickle you with bolts and amps make you push up plants.

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Sun May 15, 2011 11:01 pm

Hah that's a good way to remember which is which.

JasonandMichell · Post by **JasonandMichell** » Sat Aug 06, 2011 6:26 pm

Spokes wrote:If anyone is still interested, you have two other brand/model choices for 6 volt batteries with the proper terminal position and screw configuration for the CA95 & CA160

1. Motocross Brand Original Equipment Battery-6 Volt 6N12A-20. I bought mine at Batteries Plus. Off the shelf for the CA95
2.) Wisco Brand 6 Volt battery JA-3 Racine Wisconsin. This is the new battery in my CA160

Both battery bracket dimentions for the CA95 & CA160 are exactly the same.

The batteries fit perfect. No mod needed.

So I'm buying a new battery. I found a Batteries Plus near me, but I'll be honest, most of this battery stuff is gibberish. I'm a mechanical engineer, but electrical jargon is beyond me. HELP! Why do I want x battery over y? Why isn't it as simple as installing a car battery and moving on? What are the things I need to pay attention to when purchasing/installing/using the battery?

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:02 pm

Buying the battery suggested at Batteries Plus is the easiest. They will fill the battery with acid and put a charge on it for you. The less expensive battery, usually found on ebay will need the battery acid added and you will have to charge it. (You will need a battery tender and/or a 6 volt battery charger)

Why is the battery issue for the old Honda's not as easy as buying a car battery?

Modern Car Battery: Lead Acid, Sealed, 12V -Common- Maintenance Free-Usually lasts about 3 years

Old CA95 & 160 Battery: Lead Acid, Vented, 6V Uncommon- Need to keep the battery filled to level with water-Usually lasts 1 maybe 2 years.

I hear that you can get a 6V gel type sealed battery. Just make sure the dimentions are correct (or close) and the ground terminal is on the right side.

JasonandMichell · Post by **JasonandMichell** » Tue Aug 16, 2011 8:30 am

I went to a Batteries Plus this past weekend and bought a battery. It was not available off the shelf, and it wasn't a Motorcross brand, but it was the 6N12A-2D part number. The guy behind the desk explained a lot about the system to me, but it was still a little rough. He provided another option (I don't remember now), but I went with Spokes' part number because I didn't know enough about it to make an educated decision.

I should have it this weekend. I'll plug her in and see if I get spark, lights, horn, etc.

Chachivoodoo · Post by **Chachivoodoo** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 9:13 am

My local Batteries Plus could not locate ANYTHING that came close to these cross referenced batteries.

Does anyone else have a link or source for a flooded (not sealed) battery that would be suitable and safe for our bikes?

Grunt · Post by **Grunt** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 1:44 pm

The battery in my CA95 is this one:
http://www.staabbattery.com/product/6N12A-2D-Y.html

aaron7 · Post by **aaron7** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 2:41 pm

I use a nice period-looking battery that's found on ebay usually. No complaints! Just be sure to keep it charged if the bike's stored during the cold months. That did one of mine in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB72-CB77 ... 500wt_1180

Grunt · Post by **Grunt** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:04 pm

^The problem with the one in your pic is that the polarity is reversed on the battery. I'm not exactly crazy about the battery in mine either, because the negative post is at the back of the battery putting it close to the bike's frame.

aaron7 · Post by **aaron7** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 4:05 pm

Heh, I never knew that. My CA had to be wired from scratch as it was all missing! haha