'65 CA95 Refresh

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Sat Feb 26, 2011 9:03 pm

Yes the slides in these CA95 do stick quite often and cause operational problem. This is seriously annoying when the throttle won't respond like you are asking it to. I think it's purely because the chrome plating on them wears down and buildup can occur. But the needle problem is also a good point. I have two CA95 carbs that have similar sticking problems so I was on the verge of having the slides plated. I would like to put one back on and try the vasaline trick now. Also I need to inspect the needles closer as well or course. Time for a new thread!

comp_wiz101 · Post by **comp_wiz101** » Sun Feb 27, 2011 12:22 am

Smithers wrote:Yes the slides in these CA95 do stick quite often and cause operational problem. This is seriously annoying when the throttle won't respond like you are asking it to. I think it's purely because the chrome plating on them wears down and buildup can occur. But the needle problem is also a good point. I have two CA95 carbs that have similar sticking problems so I was on the verge of having the slides plated. I would like to put one back on and try the vasaline trick now. Also I need to inspect the needles closer as well or course. Time for a new thread!

I recently cleaned out my carb, including the gunked-up slide channel...

I still need to install it to test properly, but my worn (and a little chewed-up!) carb slide was sticking near full throttle; after some very light abrasive work(to remove some burrs from a previous owners questionable tactics) I sprayed the slide and barrel with silicone. So far, it seems very smooth and slick again.

I've got a machinist making a new power air jet, then I'll be able to install it and see how well it all works after exposure to gasoline.

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 4:31 pm

After months of tinkering, and lagging, I finally got her started today!! On the first kick no less. The throttle cable routing is extremely important, as is the grommet on the handlebar where the cable exits. The bowl overflows, and I haven't put the muffler back on the left side, but it felt great to hear her run again!!

Here's a short clip, running on what was left in the bowl.

http://youtu.be/ZU5ouS82usQ

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 4:40 pm

Excellent! Feels good huh?! Sounds mean. >

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 4:56 pm

Smithers wrote:Excellent! Feels good huh?! Sounds mean. >

Thank You! And, YES! It feels so good to get her going. That throttle cable was a bear, but I'm confident I could do the whole job of replacing one in five minutes now I'm such an expert. I'm glad I can just take the bowl off to adjust the float , too. It's tricky work getting the cable hooked into the slide in the carb.

My early model tank rusted up pretty good, so I'll give that a thorough cleaning so I can get her buttoned up.

I picked up a pair of carb covers from Ohio Cycle. It takes some effort to get your order placed, but my parts were shipped promptly. Too bad I forgot to order the front brake cable I need

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:48 pm

Carb covers you say? A friend of mine needs a set of those soon. How much did those run you? These bikes don't go fast enough to really need BOTH brakes.

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:32 pm

Smithers wrote:Carb covers you say? A friend of mine needs a set of those soon. How much did those run you? These bikes don't go fast enough to really need BOTH brakes.

Ha! I might need both for some of the hills here in SF!

The covers were 90 for the pair; not cheap, but hard to find. Every parts bike I've seen has been harvested, and I've seen only one half of the pair go up on ebay in the last 8 months. They weren't listed on his online catalog, and the chain covers listed on there were out of stock, so talking to him with part numbers is the way to go.

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:02 pm

Adjusted the float, no more leaking. Charged up the battery good, turned the key to the headlight position, and my sealed beam works!! It must have been too bright out to see it when I'd checked before. Any of you guys ride these bikes at night?

My early model tank is being cleaned and sealed professionally. My dad's friend is doing it for free

I need to do a full tune up. I've never touched a set of points (this bike only has one luckily) or adjusted any valves. I do have the feeler tools, and I'm confident I can do it. I took off the chain and front sprocket, but I need to buy a lift so I can take off the back wheel. The old chain is soaking in carb cleaner so I can have a spare.

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Tue Apr 05, 2011 6:45 pm

Got the bike fully registered for the road. DMV tried to charge me $45 to change my license plate number to the number on the original black plate. I told them it was their mistake for changing it to a new number, to which they begrudgingly agreed.

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 3:00 pm

I've been starting her up almost every day, but she's smoking. It's not thick smoke by any means, but it definitely smells like burning oil, and both cylinders are puffing. I haven't yet changed the oil and done the full tune up, because I'm trying to enlist the help of a friend. Should I wait until after the tune up to be concerned? What's the most common cause of oil burning? Bad rings, bad valve seats??

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:23 pm

Usually its bad rings. You can't rule out valve guides. But first make sure the crankcase is not overfilled. Use 30 wt straight weight diesel oil. The diesel oil still has the zinc anti-scrubbing additive in the oil.

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:38 am

That's what I was afraid of. I think I'll let a few cap fulls of Sea Foam soak on the pistons, I've heard that can help old rings.

Smithers · Post by **Smithers** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:40 am

I think the theory behind that is the Sea Foam helps free up the piston rings by blowing out the carbon from the grooves right? Then follow that up by putting some RESTORE engine treatment in your oil and see what happens. I bought a big can of that stuff recently to put into a couple high mileage vehicles I have. Then I'm going to put some Marvel Mystery oil in as well. hehe

djbrett · Post by **djbrett** » Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:04 am

I've used the sea foam on the other side of things, sucking it in through the throttle body on my old school lexus. Smokes like crazy, but definitely clears out lots of carbon deposits. On one of the other forums for my other bike, someone mentioned trying seafoam rather than pulling and cleaning the carbs. Don't know if I buy it, but I may try.
Also, Smithers, have you used the restore in the wet clutch? I've been wanting to use some sort of treatment, but have been nervous about what it would do with the clutch. This bike is the first time I've ever worked with one and I'm a little nervous.

Greggo325 · Post by **Greggo325** » Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:59 am

Sea Foam works magic. It's kept my CB500 carbs clean for over a year of intermittent riding. It will clean your carbs, but it will not clean a clogged jet. It has to be able to penetrate to work its thing, so it depends on how bad your carbs are.

Four Wheel Forum

'65 CA95 Refresh

Got Her Started!!