I found another forum talking about engine paint and they all liked this Eastwood product.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-ceramic-engi ... -blac.html
I'm just making a mental note here so I can remember to order some for my next engine soon.
Engine Painting
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Larzfromarz
- Posts: 620
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:47 pm
Engine Paint Report-Eastwood Ceramic 2-Part
The CA95 engine cases were bead blasted and washed 4 times. The engine cases were painted under a bright light, 35lbs air pressure using a mini HPLV spray gun.
Below is a before shot of one part
After
I am also saving the mufflers until a better pair is found. The mufflers were also bead blasted. They were patched with heavy application fiberglass resin with a JB Weld coating. The paint adhered well. The mufflers are a work in progress. They will get a final coat after feathering the patch. Then shiny silver header paint.
The paint was thinned 1/3 with fast reducer. It applied very nice and one moderate coat is all I needed. I am very pleased.
I have painted an inner chain guard from a CA160 as a sacrificial part. After a week I will subject it to gasolene to check its durability.
Below is a before shot of one part
After
I am also saving the mufflers until a better pair is found. The mufflers were also bead blasted. They were patched with heavy application fiberglass resin with a JB Weld coating. The paint adhered well. The mufflers are a work in progress. They will get a final coat after feathering the patch. Then shiny silver header paint.
The paint was thinned 1/3 with fast reducer. It applied very nice and one moderate coat is all I needed. I am very pleased.
I have painted an inner chain guard from a CA160 as a sacrificial part. After a week I will subject it to gasolene to check its durability.
Last edited by Spokes on Sun Mar 10, 2013 5:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Larzfromarz
- Posts: 620
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:47 pm
Fuel Exposure Test Results
My sacrificial painted part was put to the test today as to check the resistance of this 2 part engine paint to gas.
Spilled gas on the part and allowed to evaporate twice @75F. No damage to the paint.
The part was submerged in gas. 5 minutes. No damage.
The part was submerged in gas for 4 hours. The paint was damaged, but did not fall away from the metal.
Standard rattle can engine paint would be damaged within seconds. I am very impressed.
Spilled gas on the part and allowed to evaporate twice @75F. No damage to the paint.
The part was submerged in gas. 5 minutes. No damage.
The part was submerged in gas for 4 hours. The paint was damaged, but did not fall away from the metal.
Standard rattle can engine paint would be damaged within seconds. I am very impressed.
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Larzfromarz
- Posts: 620
- Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:47 pm
I am currently rebuilding a 160 engine for a friend and used the Eastwood paint for the case, cylinder, head, side covers and small parts. While Spokes has better technique than I do, I am very pleased with my results. I have used about 1/2 quart to paint essentially two engines.
As far as durability I wanted the characteristics tested for by Spokes. I prepped the usual way and let the parts heat up in the Fl afternoon sun prior to and post painting. I used a $14 Harbor Freight HVLP gun at about 45 psi, mixed per the instructions and some medium reducer added for my conditions. I sprayed a tack coat and then two "medium wet" coats. I'd estimate the parts were in excess if 125 deg F when I sprayed them.
Unfortunately on a last pass I got a bit of water in the line and the finish on one side cover fisheyed badly. The next day I decided to throw the cover into the bead blast cabinet and restrip it. 20 minutes later and with only the size of a silver dollar removed I decided the stuff was pretty tough. I reached for another side cover and stripped and painted it with a much nicer result. It took much less time that way.
Additionally I sprayed parts separately, prior to mock up and final assembly. The finish takes dirty fingers and cleans up with just a wipe and after final assembly no touch up was required. I prefer this technique over the assemble then paint method
Again I'm super impressed with this product and will be placing and order for more.
As far as durability I wanted the characteristics tested for by Spokes. I prepped the usual way and let the parts heat up in the Fl afternoon sun prior to and post painting. I used a $14 Harbor Freight HVLP gun at about 45 psi, mixed per the instructions and some medium reducer added for my conditions. I sprayed a tack coat and then two "medium wet" coats. I'd estimate the parts were in excess if 125 deg F when I sprayed them.
Unfortunately on a last pass I got a bit of water in the line and the finish on one side cover fisheyed badly. The next day I decided to throw the cover into the bead blast cabinet and restrip it. 20 minutes later and with only the size of a silver dollar removed I decided the stuff was pretty tough. I reached for another side cover and stripped and painted it with a much nicer result. It took much less time that way.
Additionally I sprayed parts separately, prior to mock up and final assembly. The finish takes dirty fingers and cleans up with just a wipe and after final assembly no touch up was required. I prefer this technique over the assemble then paint method
Again I'm super impressed with this product and will be placing and order for more.
Last edited by Larzfromarz on Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.