Four Wheel Forum

I tend to be longwinded...
Tires on, all cables on, chain on, no oil in engine yet and tank is next. Accel cable was one inch too short. I cut an inch off the cable outer- a real pain, but it works. Carb installed- need to order an aftermarket filter. Replaced selenium rectifier with a Radio Shack full wave rectifier and used a heat sink. Used the holes fitted in the fins to attach to frame. Wiring and bullet connectors replaced as needed. Bought a NOS Wiseco battery on Ebay, will bring it to the local lawnmower repair place to have acid put in. I'll charge it myself. Will order a headlight assy. from Thailand for about $65.00 total. A guy at work can recover the seat- trade for me to build a mantle for his den. Youngest son, 10, asked if I was going to paint the bike, original scratched pitted works for me. Every evening I get a few things done- kids need help with homework, wife works late etc. I did have one small seal, double sided that was not reinstalled, about a pencil width ID. Anyone got an idea?
Thanks for all the help.

The small seal is the kick starter shaft seal IMO.

I'd say the clutch push rod is nearer pencil thickness.

Sam.

Could you detail your rectifier set up? Are you running stock a 6 v. battery? What is the radioshack part number?

ThunderMcAwesum wrote:Could you detail your rectifier set up? Are you running stock a 6 v. battery? What is the radioshack part number?

For generic rectifiers, I've used Oregon Motorcycle Parts for 3 restorations now. Prices are low and the service is great. They take a generic rectifier, add wires and provide instructions, all for a low price.

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html

ByTheLake wrote:For generic rectifiers, I've used Oregon Motorcycle Parts for 3 restorations now. Prices are low and the service is great. They take a generic rectifier, add wires and provide instructions, all for a low price.

http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html

Looks like good stuff he provides there. Thanks for the sound recommendation.

I don't remember the Radioshack part #. It's the highest volt one they had. I mounted a RS heat sink on it. The heat sink has grooves in the fins for a screw, just drilled holes in the frame, two screws mounted it. Staying with the 6 volt setup. I considered BTL's suggestion, but cheap skate me made my own.

Erik, did you figure which seal it was that you had in the left over box ?

Sam.

Sam,

I've got a sneaky suspicion it goes between the engine right side cover- possibly where an oil passage is. Maybe engine LS cover oil passage? It's about the size of those hollow round pieces that line up the covers to the engine. It may just be something that fell off a tool. I'm going to check the manuals. It's about 3/8" round with a 1/8" hole and lipped on both sides.

Can you post a picture along with another common part that we will recognize?

Sam.

Done.

After looking at this apparent seal I suspect it's a clutch pushrod seal. Can't find the part in the parts manual. Attached pic. I hope to gosh it's under the left engine cover.

Clean the face of the seal and read the numbers. You can cross reference the seal that way. I checked my seal stock, it's not the push rod seal. My bet is the seal is for the shift shaft(engine case) or kick start shaft(right engine case)

none of them there coins in MY pocket,

I'm guessing it's a 10 cent coin and that it is the push rod seal.
I'll go through my stash of American coins when I go home at lunch time.

If the motor is fully built up, you would be able to see the shift and kick start seals from the out side.
If it is in fact the push rod seal, removal of the generator cover would allow you to see if it was missing or not.

Sam.

Thanks all, I'll remove the generator cover when I get home. Looks just the size for the clutch pushrod seal. If it were under the RS engine cover I believe I'd start looking for a bridge to jump off. It's all sealed up.