CA95 Rear Shock Auction

bamabob · Post by **bamabob** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:10 pm

Nevermind on the pictures. Somehow I started several post into the thread where the pictures were not repeated so I'm good on this. But..... is there a way to open the shock itself up to replace seals and add oil?

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:14 pm

I just updated the procedure with pics.

No there is no rebuild kit that I am aware of to repair the hydraulic piston. When I need to do a shock build I buy extras as donor's. I think the top of the cylinder is peened making it a destructive disassembly.

Jetblackchemist · Post by **Jetblackchemist** » Thu Nov 24, 2011 11:35 pm

If your nut is stuck and the whole thing spins like mine did, you can cut a slot for a screw driver in the top, to hold it when you turn the wrench. They sell plastic welding kits at Harbor Freight...might be worth looking into for cracked plastic. My plastic was too far gone so I painted the springs, covers and just flipped the metal cover to use for the top...Ok for custom work but not restoration correct by any means. Of course I'll never sell my bike at any price so built to my taste is perfect for me.

bamabob · Post by **bamabob** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 4:34 am

Jetblackchemist wrote:If your nut is stuck and the whole thing spins like mine did, you can cut a slot for a screw driver in the top, to hold it when you turn the wrench. They sell plastic welding kits at Harbor Freight...might be worth looking into for cracked plastic. My plastic was too far gone so I painted the springs, covers and just flipped the metal cover to use for the top...Ok for custom work but not restoration correct by any means. Of course I'll never sell my bike at any price so built to my taste is perfect for me.

Mine were done the same way by the PO and the chrome is real nice. I thought they were the wrong shocks. But dont really look bad and really should look good on a white bike to add some contrast. I think I'll polish up the shock body and go with it until I run across a good set of upper covers. Now that Spokes has unlocked the secret to taking them apart, its not a big deal.

As far as determining shock condition, I am now able to detect some dampening on the up stroke. I guess the oil settled when I left them in the correct position in the vice for awhile. There is no dampening(resistance) on the downstroke and it takes 2 or 3 times the effort to pull it back up. Action is smooth and rod is clean and straight. Is this about right? I have nothing to compare it to.
Thanks,
Bob

Spokes · Post by **Spokes** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:26 am

I have done several sets of shocks. I have also found no info about the amount of resistance on the down or up slide. My take on it is that the shock needs resistance on the up slide to avoid bounce. The spring gives the resistance needed to carry the load on the down slide.

So if you have some resistance in the shock's up slide and no oil leakage then the unit is usable.

When putting the unit back together, lubricate the bottom (only) of the spring with a light coating of grease. This will keep the shock from squeeking....

bamabob · Post by **bamabob** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 12:07 pm

Spokes wrote:I have done several sets of shocks. I have also found no info about the amount of resistance on the down or up slide. My take on it is that the shock needs resistance on the up slide to avoid bounce. The spring gives the resistance needed to carry the load on the down slide.

So if you have some resistance in the shock's up slide and no oil leakage then the unit is usable.

When putting the unit back together, lubricate the bottom (only) of the spring with a light coating of grease. This will keep the shock from squeeking....

That's what I was hoping to hear on the resistance. And thanks for the tip on the grease.

Jetblackchemist · Post by **Jetblackchemist** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 3:26 pm

I was reading that earlier bikes shock design also took into account the sidewall flex of the tires to help dampen the ride. Newer tires and better technology yields less side wall flex and a slightly stiffer ride as a result.

When I flipped my shock assembly, I also flipped the spring where the tighter wound part of the spring was showing through at the bottom, it gives it a beefier look and less of a dirt bike looking spring that way. http://www.fourwheelforum.com/attachmen ... 1306884159

Shocks seem to come up a lot on ebay although, the color you want them in is a crap shoot...I don't think I've seen white ones on there ever unless on a bike being sold...so good luck on original white ones. I think chroming the spring and painting the cover you do have white would definitely carry massive eye appeal, if you decide on that route.

bamabob · Post by **bamabob** » Fri Nov 25, 2011 4:26 pm

I'm going to see what it looks like with the chrome part on top, springs black and shock body highly polished. If I don't like it I'll get a pair of shocks for just some good covers and paint them white.