Air filter ideas

[aaron7]

What do you guys run for air filters? The junky Thailand OEM replacements are SO expensive! I don't want to pay $40 shipped for one of those things only to wait 4 weeks for it and have it last a month before it falls apart.

[Spokes]

This is what I have


It's a K&N filter part# RU-1130 and costs around $31.00. It will last years and the bike will run nice.

You can get a screen type with no filter (sorry no pic) for much less. Go to ebay and search pit bike air filters. Your flange measures 1.6875" dia, find a 3" or less dia. filter and stay around a 2.5" long filter.

These diamentions will fit in the CA95 and the CA160 frame and allow for the carb trim on the frame to be used.

[Smithers]

I'll be getting one of those foam Uni filters whenever I need one. I just have the original filters on my bikes. Motorcycle shops usually have displays with lots of universal filters so you can buy one that is close and just make it work.

[phoenix216]

I got one of these from Rusty Riders. Less than $8. We'll see how it holds up.

[Spokes]

That will work just fine! Won't filter out fine dust, so keep off the dusty dirt roads!

[Nige1100s]

I used to run a similar filter but when i read the manual i realised the vacuum tapping on the carburettor insulator isnt meant to be connected to the engine breather. Having read how it alloes the engine to breathe on the overrun i figured it would be better connected to the filter. I cut the dirty paper element off an old filter cut a section out of a new car filter and glued it in with silicon sealant. £8 filter provided enough to do 4.

[tuff cub]

i picked up a two pack of the uni foam filters at a local shop on sale. the OD of the filter flange fits nicely under the boot for the intake and stays on well with the clamp. i would just run the stock one if they were available, but the one that came with my bike was hammered. i'd be happy to sell the extra one i have for ten bucks if anyone can use it. i run the carb and upper vents to atmosphere via fuel line ducted to inside the frame.

[hoghungry1]

You guys are killing me.

I like the K&N (have them on everything in the house) and never even thought they made one for the ca95 .

I was going to go the Rube Goldberg route myself until I recently picked up some money on paypal and used it to pop for the Thai filter.

Damn!

[mk2davis]

I'm also running a Uni, and it required a change in the main jet. Just FYI.

[aaron7]

What did you change the jet to? And how did you know it needed to be changed?

[mk2davis]

I just put in a 115 to replace a 110. After a 10 minute ride I noticed some bluing on the headers. I pulled the plugs, and she was running lean all right. At least the plugs looked evenly lean. I was also running it without the aluminum dust covers, I'm sure that leaned it out too a little. I'd rather error on the rich side.

The bike pulls better though, seems like it has confidence at 50 instead of suprised it got there.

I also gapped my plugs at .030", that seemed to help too.

[aaron7]

Just touching back on this.

I've been running without a filter but with some leggings material over the carb. No aluminum covers either. My pipes are a bit blue but how do you know if you're running lean? Just check the plugs?

[Sam Green]

Just touching back on this.

I've been running without a filter but with some leggings material over the carb. No aluminum covers either. My pipes are a bit blue but how do you know if you're running lean? Just check the plugs?

Yes, but to do what's called a plug chop on our bikes is difficult.
You need to run the motor up to 9,500rpm and then all at the same time, close throttle, pull in the clutch and turn off the motor, this gives you a true reading unlike just taking a plug out and looking at it.
If you could rig up a temp kill switch near to the clutch leaver, it would make it easy.

Sam.