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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

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  #1  
Unread 09-28-2007, 07:59 PM
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I finally found where the last seal goes from the oil seal kit. The only seal that I didn't know the location of is the only oil seal that has a metal surround. I was scratching my head on this one because I had the whole engine put together except for the covers and I didn't see where it went. It would have sucked if it was supposed to be inside the cases somewhere.

The metal ca95 seal goes on the clutch adjuster on the shifter side engine cover. Here is the schematic:



The metal seal is indicated by the #13. The reason it took me so long to find the location of this oil seal is that since the seal has a metal surround it looks like everything else, metal! It wasn't until I was prepping this cover for paint today that I realized it was right in front of me. This area of the cover is always covered in grease as a result of grease being liberally applied to this adjusting system. On the exterior there is a grease fitting for this apparatus. The seal actually has a dent in the side of it which must be applied in order to hold the seal in place. Since both my parts engine and the good engine have this dent in the seal that must be the reason. So when replacing this seal I will have to take a swing at it with a hammer. Here is the seal on the end of these "clutch adjusters" as referred to in the parts listing. Note the dent and how well it blends in!

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Unread 09-28-2007, 08:10 PM
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How do you get to these little parts? Well here is what I'm talking about. Here is the card of seals that I have used and here is the cover all taken apart as it is one of the last pieces that I need to paint. The adjuster is held in place by the foot with the long 10mm bolt which is resting just above the left corner of the cover. Once you remove this from the inside then the adjuster can then be pushed through the cover from the outside. Depending on if your clutch adjuster was ever greased, you will have to either press it through with your finger or tap it out with a small piece of wood (to protect the alloy) and a hammer.



And here we can see the inside of the cover and what it looks like when it's clean.

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Unread 09-28-2007, 08:16 PM
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Boy it's sure nice having two of everything!!! In all my time I have learned that having an engine purely for parts is the best way to go whenever your working on an old engine or doing custom performance work on a hard to find engine. With a little patience you should be able to find another non-working engine on the cheapThe little parts that you need will nickle and dime you to death. I just happened to be in the right place at the right time when someone saw me riding my old CA160 and thought I might want to know about an old Honda that was available sitting in someones field. If anyone comes up to talk to you about your old Honda always tune in if they have any info on other bikes in your area for sale or parts or whatever! Someone actually approached me at lunch the other day to talk about bikes and give me a hint on a local guy who has a HUGE inventory of old original Honda parts in his garage!



When the cover is painted and assembled I'll post a picture of what it looks like assembled. Just make sure that if you are servicing the bike for a ride that you adjust the clutch and make sure that grease is circulating. When I fired up my CA160 for a ride the clutch wasn't engaging and I didn't know if the plates were stuck together or what. I had to adjust the cable on the bars to the furthest thread of the collar to make it work. I'm sure I need to check this adjuster and service it.
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Unread 10-13-2007, 08:20 PM
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Here is a close shot of the adjuster mechanism as well as the inside piece that pivots. As the part rotates when the clutch cable pulls it, the shifting rod is pushed which in turn reaches all the way through the engine and pushes the clutch basket which releases pressure from the clutch discs. The adjustment sets the pre-load on the shift rod and will quickly remove any large amount of slack in the clutch pull. The cable collars on the clutch perch will adjust for minor amounts of clutch play which might be caused by worn pivots or stretch that might occur in the cable itself. This larger adjustment is used for installing a different cable or new clutch. Big changes in tolerance from worn out parts to new replacement parts probably would require this adjustment.



If you pull your clutch in and get resistance from the springs but it still doesn't dis-engage, first adjust the collar on the clutch perch to remove any slack. If that still doesn't actuate the clutch then this would be the adjustment to make.
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Unread 10-13-2007, 08:33 PM
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Here are the pictures that I like to post: pictures of things assembled and ready to use!



The Benly 150 clutch adjuster is installed, greased and ready to go. The retaining piece was held in place while tightening it up as it will move from side to side until the final tension is applied. The spring is clean and in good shape. The only thing I would like more is for the cable catch to be a little more straight. It is bulged out from being used and not easy to correct. The end of the cable is round and should have been square shaped to make the most contact with this fitting. As long as the clutch isn't abused this is perfectly suited to handle some easy riding.



CA95 clutch assembly looking good! Cover is spit-shine clean, painted and (now) installed.
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