Getting ready, set and ....wait, can't go yet!

[1911tex]

My all original '65 CA95 has been stored in a dry warehouse for 14 years...yes, properly prepared for storage back then... Fuel drained, oil changed, covered, and on blocks. New points, condenser, valves adjusted, battery removed. It ran fine prior to storage.

Pre-start prep is very important, so what do you suggest I squirt into the spark plug holes prior to manually cranking it over...and how long should it sit before cranking?

Should I flush the crankcase after draining the oil...if so with what?

I understand you recommend running with 30wt diesel oil...does that still stand as the standard with todays oils...any special brand?

What else should I do in preparation?

Obviously it has been a long time since I worked on this bike, kinda excited to be back into it. Ebay parts lists CA95, CA95 Benley, C95 and 150. I understand the C95 was the same as CA95, but not for export. What is the difference between CA95 and CA95 Benley...I thought they were the same??

I look forward to posting pictures and enlisting your suggestions as I progress...this site is terrific! And as always, I appreciate your kind responses!

[Spokes]

Frankly, how I go about reviving my old motor projects...and remember, you may get many opinions.

I load the cylinders with PB Blaster until they overflow. Let sit for a little while before cycling the cylinders.

I drain the old oil..then replace the drain plug and fill the crankcase to the top with cheap motor oil. kick the engine over a few times and drain the crankcase. This flushes out any old acidic oil from the motor. I pull the side covers off and scrape the sludge as much as possible. While I'm in the motor I remove the clutch plates and cleam them with my de-burring wheel or you can sand them on a flat surface. I clean the clutch fiber plates with Wesleys Whitewall cleaner.

Put the clutch back together, attach the side covers with new case gaskets.

[Smithers]

Hi Tex, Odds are you will have more trouble getting the clutch to work good than anything else. Unless you stored the bike with the spark plug out and the piston all the way at the bottom of the stroke with exhaust valve open = rusty cylinder.

I would probably just dump some diesel oil in the cylinder and cycle the engine a few times nice and easy by hand or light force from your foot. Spark plug in or fuel will shoot out into your eye. And using the cheapest engine oil you could find, rinse it out with an oil change. I'm so impatient I would leave it together and just get it running and worry about the clutch when it was running by using the clutch dumping suggestions here on this forum. But you might want to go the safe route and follow Spokes clutch maintenance suggestions. Heck it might be running by now? Did you start it up yet?

Make sure and put a fresh battery in it before you fire it. They really need battery power to run.

[1911tex]

Thanks to both spokes and smithers! I will use your advise and update progress on the start up in a couple of weeks. I will also go the clutch suggestion as that might be an issue as well. Keep up the great advise....super site!!!! Thanks

[kartgreen]

Hey Tex , dig a little deeper before you try starting your bike after 14 years .
Pull the frame side covers and check that the air filter is in good order, has a mouse built a nest in the frame or around the air filter .
Pull the carb and flush or blow out all the passages. when back together does the carb slide operate smoothly .
Remove the bowl to the petcock and see if everything is clean and not plugged up . move the petcock lever back and forth .
Check the gas tank for any rust or gunk build-up . Replace the fuel line to the carb and the tank crossover .
Check the ground strap to the battery , are the connection points clean , you need a good ground .
Do the engine maintence per Smithers and Spokes but I'd add install new spark plugs and checking the points for the correct gap . With a fully charged battery and the ignition switch on kick the motor over and check for spark at the points and eack spark plug .
Once you know the motor turns over with no apparent weird noises , you've verified you have spark to the plugs ,pour some gas in to the tank and verify the carb bowl is filling with gas you have an excellent chance of starting the motor with a few kicks . You'll get more juice to the coils if you kick start the bike verses using the electric starter assuming the starter turns over at all .
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress .
Oh yes , use a lo or non detergent oil 30 wt. or 40wt. Modern oils have a detergent in them that reduces the contamination to very fine particles that the paper filters remove . The Honda spin filter won't catch these .

[1911tex]

Thanks fellas....you really keep this thread going in the right direction! I will follow every step!

[kartgreen]

AS I'm thinking , doesn't happen all that often , Get the grease gun out and grease everything but especially the clutch adjuster fitting on the left side cover . Give it a couple of squirts , pull the lever several times until it's smooth ,regrease if you think it's necessary . 14 year old grease sets up !
At some point once you have the bike running you should pull the left side cover and remove the clutch adjuster and give it a good cleaning and regrease . If it's hanging up at all your clutch will slip . Ask me how I know .

[1911tex]

I have made a check list with all the info offered above. It may take a week or two, but I will post the results here.....thanks all!