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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

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  #31  
Unread 01-17-2011, 01:29 AM
Sam Green Sam Green is offline
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Originally Posted by Greggo325 View Post
Sam,

Thanks for the reply. I know it is the early model, it's actually a '63. I couldn't resist it for the price. I really just wanted the engine for spare parts, but he wanted to sell it whole. After evaluating all the small bits still attached to this bike (many of which are resalable as CB92 interchangeable bits) I decided to take it. It's got the star shaped cable adjusters, a nice handlebar, a near perfect front fender, a good working speedo, a complete headlight assembly, ignition switch....too good to pass up.

Aside from the tach drive, how similar are the motors in early and late CA95's?
I'm not sure Gregg. The difference in the head was just the tacho drive.
The very early ones had different sized main bearings.
The only other obvious difference was the breather was on the top of the crankcase.

Sam.
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  #32  
Unread 02-01-2011, 12:14 PM
Dave swMN Dave swMN is offline
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Default cylinder liners

Don't have the best knowledge about engines and haven't taken my ca95 apart yet......and I'm sure I'll give that to some one else to do.
I see that there are liners that can be bought but don't see them in the 'parts break down'.
If I remember right the bike was smoking profusely ....hasn't been running for 25 years. If it needs pistons what would be the correct way of overhauling the engine.
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  #33  
Unread 02-02-2011, 05:12 AM
Sam Green Sam Green is offline
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Originally Posted by Dave swMN View Post
Don't have the best knowledge about engines and haven't taken my ca95 apart yet......and I'm sure I'll give that to some one else to do.
I see that there are liners that can be bought but don't see them in the 'parts break down'.
If I remember right the bike was smoking profusely ....hasn't been running for 25 years. If it needs pistons what would be the correct way of overhauling the engine.
The motor can be re-bored 4 times before the need to re-line.
Liners are an aftermarket product and cost more to buy and have fitted than finding a used block and oversized pistons.
First thing after stripping the motor is the clean the top of the piston. You will find the size stamped on the crown and can then look for the next size up providing the bore dose not have any deep score marks in it.
Any good machine shop will measure the block for you and tell what size pistons you need.
If the piston dose not have any numbers stamped on it, it is the standard 49mm piston. over bore sizes are .25mm .50mm .75mm and 1.00mm.
Good luck with your rebuild, come back if you run into any problems.

Sam.
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  #34  
Unread 02-03-2011, 08:33 PM
Greggo325 Greggo325 is offline
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Hey Guys,

Sorry I haven't updated in a while. I'm still having no luck un-stucking my muffler bolt. I can't express how frustrated I am. I can't get a socket over it because of its location behind the muffler. I've been soaking it with liquid wrench every day for a week, and finally tried heating it and wrenching on it to no avail. I'm sure it would've been easy if it wasn't so seized, but I can't get a tool in there with good enough leverage to free it. If you guys have any personal experience with this bolt please let me know your solution. I'm talking about the bolt that holds both the sprocket cover and forward muffler mount. It's gonna feel so f'kin good when I finally get it off...


I got the title in the mail, so I'm free and clear on that front at least.

Cheers fellas!
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  #35  
Unread 02-03-2011, 09:54 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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Ok, here is one of my "secrets"

Buy a 12V impact wrench at your local auto parts store, usually around $35.00. Usually the impact wrench is 1/2" drive.

Buy a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter.
Buy a cheap deep well 3/8 drive socket (size MM to fit)(not an impact socket)

I usually get my car close enough to my work to plug in the impact wrench.

The 12v impact wrench works by RPM then "hit". You will see what I mean.

The regular thin deep well socket will fit the nut. Your bolt will come off.

I keep my impact wrench in my car when I'm not using it. It makes changing flat tires a breeze.
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  #36  
Unread 02-04-2011, 04:42 AM
miked miked is offline
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i am wondering if you will have any trouble getting the title was the bike in the guys name you purchased it from?
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  #37  
Unread 02-04-2011, 09:59 AM
Greggo325 Greggo325 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokes View Post
Ok, here is one of my "secrets"

Buy a 12V impact wrench at your local auto parts store, usually around $35.00. Usually the impact wrench is 1/2" drive.

Buy a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter.
Buy a cheap deep well 3/8 drive socket (size MM to fit)(not an impact socket)

I usually get my car close enough to my work to plug in the impact wrench.

The 12v impact wrench works by RPM then "hit". You will see what I mean.

The regular thin deep well socket will fit the nut. Your bolt will come off.

I keep my impact wrench in my car when I'm not using it. It makes changing flat tires a breeze.
Spokes, I think this would work for just about any OTHER stuck nut on this bike, but you have to look at the placement of this thing to understand what I'm talking about. I'm going to take a picture so you can see.


Quote:
Originally Posted by miked View Post
i am wondering if you will have any trouble getting the title was the bike in the guys name you purchased it from?
Mike, I have a clear title for this bike in my name.
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  #38  
Unread 02-04-2011, 10:40 AM
Greggo325 Greggo325 is offline
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It's FREE!!! Yippee!!!!!!

I think yesterday's combo of torch then liquid wrench, then tapping got her loose enough. I think I'll have to replace that nut, cuz it's pretty chewed up now, but finally free!!

Now I can remove that sprocket cover, replace the sprocket, clutch cable, lube that assembly, and find a new chain. I've decided to sit on that NOS tank I found, and I've bought a nicer tank for my CB500/4, so I'll use the beat up tank I'm currently using on her to get gas to the CA95. She hasn't run in six months, so I want to get her warmed up and change the oil, clean the filter etc without having to deal with the (not so) Dream-y petcock. Assembling the petcock and filling up the early model tank I have will be the last thing I do when I want to register her for riding.
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  #39  
Unread 02-04-2011, 08:23 PM
miked miked is offline
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i was just wondering because i dont have one looking for some advise besides a title company
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  #40  
Unread 02-05-2011, 06:28 PM
Greggo325 Greggo325 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miked View Post
i was just wondering because i dont have one looking for some advise besides a title company
It really depends on your state, and proving the chain of ownership. I can't really offer much help. You should speak with a local moto shop before going to the DMV, they can offer you more help than I.
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  #41  
Unread 02-21-2011, 08:40 AM
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Smithers Smithers is offline
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Hows that project going? Now that you have the muffler bolt free and are able to continue have you done anything to that one lately?
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  #42  
Unread 02-21-2011, 11:53 AM
Greggo325 Greggo325 is offline
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Originally Posted by Smithers View Post
Hows that project going? Now that you have the muffler bolt free and are able to continue have you done anything to that one lately?
I haven't had much progress on the Benly, I've been focusing on the CB for a little while since she's my daily rider. I wanted to spruce her up a bit. I did however properly adjust my float, and 'finish' rebuilding my Benly carburetor with my dad at his shop. He figured out where the extra jet went that I couldn't remember...(it was the power jet).

Here's how the CB is looking as of now, much better than before!



Now that I have that extra tank, I'll rig it above the Benly and see if she'll start up again. I'll most likely have to set the point, which I've never done, so that will be fun! I really need a bike lift...anyone have experience with the craftsman hundred dollar model? My bikes are under 450 lbs.
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  #43  
Unread 02-21-2011, 03:16 PM
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Smithers Smithers is offline
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This one?

My neighbor has one of those and I used it a lot when I was taking the transmission in and out of my truck. I wouldn't have been able to do it without that jack. His is really old and it still works great. They are a little tricky to get the hang of but not hard to use. He uses it for his Harley. Another friend of mine gave me his jack recently that is just like this one. He was tired of walking around it in his garage! I think you can lean them up out of the way. I slid mine under a workbench. They are really handy.
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  #44  
Unread 02-25-2011, 12:31 AM
Greggo325 Greggo325 is offline
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Well, I tried like hell to get her going yesterday, but she's not getting gas. The plugs were bone dry I think I routed the throttle cable incorrectly, and it's definitely binding. Is it supposed to go through the left side, up over the rectifier? I'm also thinking the throttle return spring needs replacing too, but that might just be the cable binding. The spare cb500 tank worked out nicely for the task, as I know that gas was getting to the carb. I'm not looking forward to removing that throttle cable to re-rout it...

More to come when it stops raining (and very likely snowing Saturday) here in San Francisco.
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  #45  
Unread 02-26-2011, 09:52 AM
bluerider bluerider is offline
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I don't have any eperiance with my ca95 yet but I have had some sticky thottle issues with one of my ct 90's. I had 2 issues and I think they may also be issues on the ca 95. The first is gunky grease in the throttle slide/twist barrel. I cleaned it all out ant put it back together dry just to get things going since I knew I would be back in the throttle to go through the headlight switch. cleaning seemed to help but within a week the aluminium slide was galling on the opening in the bars and sticking worse than with the gunky old grease. A dab of vasalene solved that issue.

The second issue was not so much a stiff throttle as one that woud stick and not return to low. it turned out to be the brass pin that keeps the slide alligned in the carb had become worn and would let the slide hang on it instead of guiding it in the slot in the slide. I tapped it ina bit from the outside with a small neail and all has been fine. I know the carbs are very different but they still have slides and they are both 40+ years old.

If you pull both plugs and shoot a 1 second burst of starting fluid into each cyinder and then close it up and try to start it you should get it to turn over and sputter once or twice if it is a fuel issue. If you get nothing it is less likely a fuel issue.

Robin
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