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| The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#1
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Clutch Assembly specifics
the CA95's going back together (probably not for the last time, if past experience has anything to say about it). and I got to the clutch assembly.
According to the one-size-fits-all service manual, there should be three thrust washers, and I can only account for one. There are two other washers of useable size in the 'oddball parts go here' container, but if I use either of them, the snap-ring retainer doesn't line up with the groove in the driveshaft. So...uh...how many thrust washers does YOUR Benly have? 
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#2
03-30-2013, 05:54 PM
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The question is: How many thrust washers did you remove from your CA95? You should have a washer between the engine bearing and the clutch basket like this:
There may be a "thrush washer" before the spring clip after the clutch basket is installed. The kicker is that the "thrush washer" I'm refering to really should be called a "shim" washer. Some engines have them...some dont. The engine in the pic is from my current build. It does not have a washer before the spring clip. I've opened up other CA95 engines that did.
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#3
03-30-2013, 06:01 PM
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That's what I'd found. As an Aside, I've attached to two schematics I was looking at, in confusion, today.
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#5
03-31-2013, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
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#6
03-31-2013, 03:16 PM
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I haven't looked at the part numbers but my clutch just had the thrust b and four plates of equal thickness.
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#7
09-22-2013, 05:10 PM
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a quick addition to this thread, as I've just pulled my clutch....
In my engine (C92E-1008694), the clutch has all the steel plates the same thickness and there was no thrust washer 'C'. I've attached a picture of the back of the clutch-centre, showing where the rivets in the clutch-outer have been rubbing. I've read the other thread where Sam has said it was early engines that didn't have this washer....is it possible that Honda decided to install the thrust washer 'C' to stop this possibility? So my question is...should I use a thrust washer or leave it as is? Kev. 
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#8
09-23-2013, 08:56 AM
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You ultimately may need to try both options and see how the clutch behaves once in operation.
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#9
09-23-2013, 02:09 PM
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Kev, has a rivet come loose and is sticking more proud than the others, can you see if one particular rivet has been rubbing or have they all been rubbing?
I've just checked 3 outer baskets, all the rivets are proud of the back but all are dirty with oil and show no signs of rubbing. All three came from motors with no washer between basket and center drum and the same 4 thickness plates. I wonder if the wrong clutch center has been fitted by the PO from the model that should have the washer. Do a simple test. Put a straight edge across the high point on the back of the drum and measure down to where it has been rubbing, you should see 5.5 mm. Sam.
Last edited by Sam Green; 09-23-2013 at 03:50 PM.
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#11
09-24-2013, 04:07 PM
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Hey Sam,
I measured up the hub on the clutch centre as approx 5.25mm....maybe 5.5mm if I looked at it long enough  There appears to be two rivets that have been rubbing. (see photo) If I carefully take the top off these two offending rivets do you think I'd be good to go without the thrust washer? Thanks heaps for the input, Kev.
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#14
09-25-2013, 04:39 AM
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Having a reassembled (but not yet fired up) 150, The clutch adjustment is a little iffy. Granted, there's no lube in the crank case, which will change the friction coefficient, I'm sure, but I either have good clutch action and huge lever effort, or happy light lever effort and no disengagement.
It occurred to me that, since all of this is a shaft pushing against springs, and a specific distance, that the shims this thread is talking about might have a critical role to play here. What say you?
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#15
09-25-2013, 04:14 PM
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From my experience, clutch stiffness comes from:
1. Aftermarket clutch plates being two thick 2. The clutch actuator being too rough (I use a burnishing wheel to knock off the sharp edges of the auger) 3. The wrong grease (too stiff) in the actuator. (Dampener grease works the best for me) 4. The wrong motor oil. Yes, you can use the correct grade but Chevron straight 30 wt. motor oil glued my clutch plates together within a few miles. Shell Rotella 30 wt diesel oil is my favorite. 5. Bad clutch cable I don't think the shim between the countershaft and the clutch basket has any bearing on clutch stiffness. (IMO)
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