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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

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  #31  
Unread 05-14-2011, 08:25 PM
weestrom05 weestrom05 is offline
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I just nicely got into this one when i foundThe headlight problem nd the right hnd muffler problem. I have Vespa Grande waiting in the wings behind the Honda, so dont talk about other projects.
Curt
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  #32  
Unread 05-14-2011, 08:47 PM
Jetblackchemist Jetblackchemist is offline
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aww Smithers you know you want to Actually, I might be the one ending up blazing the trail for the ca95 conversion, I'm going to get into the electrical, on mine later this week. The starter will just run faster as more juice it can handle it no worries, the stator and rectifier can actually handle more than 12 volts. The early Hondas on the cusp of switching to 12v from 6v carried the same rectifier and stators as the 6v. and worked just fine. 6v bulbs actually carry more resistance than 12v bulbs do, so 12v is easier on your system. The only additions will be a 12v battery a 12v coil or another 6v in series with the old 6v, 12v bulbs, and a voltage regulator, or if you prefer a regulator/rectifier combo, and thats it. you can re-wrap the stator if you want but its not needed. Stators only had an expected life of 5 years or less. I'll keep you all informed. The headlights are getting impossible to find as it is already, and the 6v dual beam bulbs are going that way too, 12v is only everything and makes cycle life so much easier IMHO think of your 12v bike if you have one....would you want it to run on 6v? hell no.

Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 05-14-2011 at 08:51 PM.
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  #33  
Unread 05-14-2011, 09:01 PM
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Smithers Smithers is offline
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Awesome! I think they just threw 6v systems on the bikes because it saved them money - and back in the day probably saved the owner money buying 6v batteries maybe? 12v system upgrade is almost mandatory in terms of safety. We really need more light on these bikes on the streets.

Weestrom05: Lately I have had a really, really bad habit of starting projects of the 4 wheel veriety. I do not recommend this to anyone. Stick with 2 wheels!! I see light at the end of the tunnel though! I can't wait to get back to the motorcycle work bench.

Last edited by Smithers; 05-14-2011 at 09:03 PM.
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  #34  
Unread 05-15-2011, 01:16 AM
Jetblackchemist Jetblackchemist is offline
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My guess would be Mr Honda in doing his research only toured European cycle plants, if we look at Europe, around that time...BSA, Triumph, and of course his favorite the MZ were all using 6 volt systems. I am sure MZ got it from the UK? or vice versa since MZ is the longest running production motorcycle Co. over there.

We all know or perhaps have heard that the UK has a great history of the most ass backward wiring systems ever...lol. I am willing to bet Mr Honda didn't want to reinvent the wheel and just used what he knew worked.

I doubt that US plants would have opened their arms wide to a Japanese man so soon after Pearl Harbor.

I am willing to bet that the only reason these are rare and we get to restore them is because of that 6v system. These things were treated as a toy, if the electrical went out or something else it just got parked and left to rot, there wasn't Honda dealers in every city either.

Thats just part of my theory on why they started with 6 volts.

12v is definitely safer, you don't have to play nanny on a battery, you can accessorize to your hearts content, your lights will be brighter your horn a lot louder, no overcharge of the battery while riding. These's just too much in the pros column for than there are against.

Remember these things didn't come with turn signals. So having to add those in compliance with the DMV really taxes the little system more than it all ready is.

I'll be ordering the parts to do mine this week, when I get it all together I'll be sure to make a good tutorial with lots of photos for you guys. In the mean time I'll work on a little tut on how I polish aluminum.
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  #35  
Unread 05-15-2011, 10:03 PM
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Very good.
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  #36  
Unread 05-18-2011, 08:04 PM
weestrom05 weestrom05 is offline
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every one is telling me that I have to add an additional wire when using the Tiwanese replacement head light. Where does it go? when I looked at the wiring diagram on line all I see is a red wire going to the high beam and a blue wire going to the low beam I dont see an indicator light on my bike for the high beam, only the neutral indicator. Thanks Curt
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  #37  
Unread 05-18-2011, 08:13 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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Early CA95's had no high beam indicator where as later models did. Look closely at your speedometer. At 12 oclock you should see a small red lens. If you don't have the lens, then you need not bother with the additional wire.

IF you have the lens then connect the wire from that bulb to the blue wire(i think) The high beam energizes the high beam indicator light in the speedo.
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  #38  
Unread 05-19-2011, 03:51 AM
weestrom05 weestrom05 is offline
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Thanks, Mine must be an early one i cant find a red light. Curt
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  #39  
Unread 05-19-2011, 09:05 AM
bluerider bluerider is offline
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[quote=Jetblackchemist;6523]My guess would be Mr Honda in doing his research only toured European cycle plants, if we look at Europe, around that time...BSA, Triumph, and of course his favorite the MZ were all using 6 volt systems. I am sure MZ got it from the UK? or vice versa since MZ is the longest running production motorcycle Co. over there. QUOTE]

I suspect that the early bikes were 6v for the same reason that the old VW's were 6v, to save on weight. I remember the 6v battery in my 63 VW was way hevier than the new 6v batteries with the same amps. half as many cells saves a bunch of weight and with such a small motor weight is the enemy.

I'd love to see what a 6v HID could do for a CA95, to bad we will never find out.

Robin
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  #40  
Unread 05-19-2011, 02:28 PM
Jetblackchemist Jetblackchemist is offline
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Quite possibly that's part of it mk and vw(peoples car) are both German so it makes sense that they wouldn't stray too far from what was being done at the time. I finally got all my parts in today for the 6v to 12v conversion, it will be awhile til I get to that part of the build since I am deep into the engine atm.
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  #41  
Unread 09-01-2011, 02:41 PM
Jetblackchemist Jetblackchemist is offline
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Lightbulb Headlight A5655 bulbs found

Hi everyone I believe I have found a good source A5655 Bulbs that currently have a little over 1000 in stock. Here is the link http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/t...=15&bclick.y=6 Ignore the first result click on the Stanley or the link after.
I hopes this helps everyone needing a replacement or extras for just in case.

Last edited by Jetblackchemist; 09-01-2011 at 02:49 PM. Reason: claricfication
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  #42  
Unread 09-03-2011, 07:01 AM
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Oh wow they have the complete illustrated dimensions and specs on that exact bulb. Great find JB!
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  #43  
Unread 09-03-2011, 07:12 AM
weestrom05 weestrom05 is offline
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I have one of these but where does one find a socket to fit them. I would like to mount one in the original sealed beam.
thanks Curt
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  #44  
Unread 09-04-2011, 11:58 AM
bluerider bluerider is offline
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I havn't had a chance to poke around the headlight on my CA95 so I am a bit in the dark in more then one way. Could one of these be used for the socket to graft onto an original sealed beam bulb to make it a replaceable?

http://dratv.com/ecveofaoffro.html

Last edited by bluerider; 09-04-2011 at 12:22 PM.
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  #45  
Unread 09-05-2011, 10:54 AM
Jetblackchemist Jetblackchemist is offline
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I think the hardest part would be getting into the sealed beam itself. I haven't tried myself but I think others on here have rebuilt them, I think spokes has, maybe even smithers. My head light that I thought was blown is working with the 12v conversion I did so I haven't had the need to replace it or rebuild. Perhaps someone that has done a rebuild could help? That Drat tv link looks to have some good supplies and resources for doing it. Id go for the long thin tube bulb myself, as that seems like it would fit into the hole where the remains of the old bulb sat. I dont see getting one of those large bulbs in the sealed beam without cutting the glass beam open, which might prove tricky.
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