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| The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#1
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My build questions
I noticed I hijacked Michaels thread so I have created one for my questions. I try to play nice to etiquettes. I hooked the electrical up and began troubleshooting today. The ignition seems to operate correctly, activating the correct circuits on the different settings. The speedo backlight, tail light, stop switch, and starter all work correctly.
The left hand side is dead. No horn, no high beam. The low beam (red) has 6v to it in II and III all the time. I don't think its supposed to in II. Horn itself tested good. The horn button works if you check continuity between the housing and the end of the wire. No resistance on the horn wire in the harness indicating a ground. I'm afraid to apply power to it as its black and I don't want to fry anything. Which brings me to the neutral switch. The neutral switch is dead also. Bike is in neutral, switch is making good contact, and there is no resistance to the light bulb, in neutral indicating a solid ground. The black side goes to ground off the ignition with the white band. How does the switch get power if green/red stripe goes to ground at the switch and one the other side black grounds at the ignition? There must be something I'm missing. 
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#3
12-14-2014, 05:55 PM
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Oh yeah! Sylvania isn't far at all. Maybe we can meet up one day, if I ever get this thing going. I've some other rides - a ural, a kawa 750 turbo, and a couple rd400s. This old honda is backward in some places compared to what I've dealt with. Ill trouble shoot some more in the switch. Does the switch housing have to have ground to the frame through the bars? My bars are painted and don't ground to the frame from what I can tell. The starter button works though and it's on the bars?
I took my high low beam switch apart and cleaned it. I can't feel a detent between high/low. There's a spring in there with a check ball but it doesn't seem to do its job of making a detent. Is there something else that goes in there? You wouldn't happen to have an old high/low switch or the guts would you? It just doesn't feel right.
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#5
12-19-2014, 11:31 AM
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Chip, seems like you and Sam are the only ones putting input to the threads lol. I put new brake pads on the rear and now it works correctly. However I'm still battling with the pedal. I changed to another return spring I had, it didn't help. There's a crease in my pedal about a third of the way from the pivot. I think the PO may have inadvertently bent it in moving. It had some other dents and dings so this is what I'm thinking. I may stick it in a vice and try to bend it downward.
Also, the torque specs only say 5-6 ftlb on the exhaust flange nuts. I thought the flanges sat flush against the cylinder. Theres supposed to be a gap I suppose?
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#7
12-19-2014, 05:29 PM
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Great! If you will send the pedal, I don't need the rod necessarily to save on shipping. It may be the wrong pedal. Good to see I wasn't nuts trying to get that switch to work. I tried soldering the horn wire back on but I'm not very talented at that stuff. Thanks again so much for looking at it.
I consistently see a few people viewing the forum so I try to post my issues for everyone's benefit also. When I read old posts I see many that know their stuff!
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#9
12-22-2014, 04:50 PM
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Well, for everyone's benefit I'll post an update here. I'm sure Chip will see it
 . Chip I put your reworked switch on today and it works great! I now have a horn and a high and low beam! The brake pedal was indeed the wrong one. Picture of the two below. The black one is mine, the chrome is correct. Maybe mine is from a 160? Not sure. Now the last thing to get working is the neutral light. It doesn't come on in neutral. The cam is adjusted correctly in the motor and shows continuity in neutral and loses continuity in any other gear. It blinks when I switch from pos III to II. Basically it blinks when I switch off. It also lights dimly when the horn is pressed. Not sure what's going on here. Any idea chip? The wires are plugged correctly green with red stripe to light, black with white pipe on the end to black with white pipe from the switch.
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#12
12-23-2014, 08:33 AM
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I feel dumb again. I swapped the wires on the neutral light and it works fine. I rewired it with a hard wired led and assumed the black was negative. Wrong. I guess power comes from the ignition (black) and grounds via the green wire to the case at the neutral switch. All that is well now. Everything is progressing nicely. I did get it to crank yesterday with a homemade run bottle. I'm waiting on my tank to come back from the welder to fix the hole then it's off to the painter.
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#14
12-27-2014, 09:27 AM
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A couple more questions. Do I have the taillight wires routed correctly? The come out of the lower grommet, behind the battery, and into the opening. It looks like a pinch spot there behind the battery, maybe not. Both my wires are red (I assume they were replaced by the PO).
Just for my knowledge, what's the part number for the upper frame grommet that the positive battery wire goes through the frame? I can't find it in the parts diagram. Where does the wiring harness bell clamp bolt to the inside of the frame? Or does it slide over something? Is there a rearward rubber on the left muffler that the center stand bumps against? If so what's the part no? I've got one for the kickstand but the center stand is just a plate so it's hard to grip with boots on.
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