New Member Intro and no Spark!

[Jetblackchemist]

The screw I think you are referring to is the throttle stop screw, the problem you are having in my best guess would be in the float bowl needle adjustment. Make sure that the new gasket does not rub or bind the floats, and that their level is adjusted properly, there is a little jet controlled by the floats, this adjustment I believe is the trickiest or most problematic area of this particular carb. The is another member on here I can't recall if it was spokes or smithers that has some good photos of the carb float adjustment.

[lavs4X4]

Well guys, Spent a few hours on the bike last night. Took some time off to work on some other projects(modding my 3 yr olds powerwheels to 18volts,hahaha!) and going out to the garage when it's about a 100 degrees isn't to fun. Anyways pulled the carb, checked and recleaned all the passages and jets. Pulled the floats out cleaned up the needle valve, adjusted the float height to 20 mm, reassmebled and installed.

With my tempoery gas line hanging and a few twists of the throttle the bike sputtered. It sputtered a few more times and came ALIVE! It only ran for maybe 20 seconds but I was really happy. The carb was pulling fuel from the line and not just burning up the prime I squirted in the carb. I turned it over a few more time and it fired up and ran a number of times but wouldn't stay running. I have the idle screw out 1 1/4 still and the air mix screw about 1 1/8 and tried it at 1 1/4 turn which didnt seem to make a differnce.

A little frustrated, I thought I had it! I was glad to see the carb pulling fuel because it hadn't been, so I think the float adjustment did the trick. However when I was cleaning the needle valve I noticed the needle point was grooved up a little from the seat. Whould it be possible that the needle is sticking in the seat? The bike fires up every few attempts and sometimes will just pop or run for a few seconds and stall. Or should I check my float adjustment again? Is 20 mm the correct height for the floats?

When I rebuilt my carb half the stuff wasn't correct including the needle, seat and bowl gasket. So, I had to reuse the old stuff. Need a new bowl gasket for sure because it leaks, and thinking that my issue is the needle valve. Would this make sense?

Getting closer! Any reccomendations on a good carb kit and a vendor that is not in Thailand?

Thanks

[lavs4X4]

After 25 years of hibernation the ole girl FIRED UP last night! I let it run for a few minutes and tuned the carb a little. Sounds good with no mufflers! A little more carb tinkering and I tapped on the carb and I think that freed up the needle valve and she came alive.

Overall pretty pumped!

[Jetblackchemist]

I'm not sure if you're aware but there is another adjustment that can be made on the throttle needle itself.

When you remove the throttle body from the carb the main throttle jet has a few different slots to change it's depth with an e-clip, I think 3rd from the top was how they shipped.

Moving it one slot up or down fine tunes the lean or rich adjustment. It's an often unknown or overlooked adjustment that can be made.

[lavs4X4]

I'm bringing this thread back from the archives!!! Although last summer I did get the bike running it never really ran good. It would fire up, run for a minute or two, and die. Restarting was next to impossible and I just got frustrated with the bike and retired for the winter under a sheet in the corner of the garage.

Well, last Sunday I figured I would give the bike some attention and in between my International Scout project, and Nissan trail rig I figured I would mess with the bike. I started from square one, timing, sure enough I had the cam 0 at TDC and the crank 0 in line with it but at 12 o' clock. WRONG! Somehow I misunderstood lining up the 0s so this forum set me straight. I made the adjustment so the crank 0 is basically at 6 oclock and the cam 0 in line with it but at 12 oclock. I even used my laser level that in the 8 years I've owned it I have never used it

Next I went on to the adjusting the valves per the manual. Very easy and I felt confident I had done them correctly.

Gapped the points, made sure I had spark and everythng was ready. Attempted to start and nothing, wouldn't sputter or fire. It backfired once and I could hear it popping back into the carb. Bummed I retired for the night dissappointed again

Did some thread searching at work and came up with some helpful posts. Knowing I had fuel and spark lead to believe I still had a timing issue. Somehow I landed on a post here which I will track down but it mentioned that the points cam barrel was on the wrong way and the gentleman had similiar syptoms. I figured it was worth a shot. I flip the points cam barrel 180 degrees and adjusted the points once again. In the manual it stats that you want the points to close when the F on the stator comes around. This is incorrect! If the cam barrel is on correctly it would allow adgustment for this to happen. This was also pointed out in the post. Apparently you want the points to just start to open when the F comes around to the indicator line on the magneto.

Turned the gas on in the freshly rebuilt petcock( with not leaks! Jeah!) and flipped the choke and twisted the throttle twice, hit the starter button. The bike started!!!! I was pumped, to say the least. Seems to run good, responds to throttle well, and idles like it should. Success!

So I'm glad to be back in the Benly building, picked up a 428 chain on the way into work for $14 and plan to ride this thing when I get home. It will be the first time it has hit the pavement since the mid 1980s.

Stay tuned and thank you for all the great info. Without this site the bike would still be in the corner of the garage.

[Larzfromarz]

Great deal Lavs! It is easy to get discouraged but if you use a step by step process you either get them working or learn what is broken.
It is correct that the breaker points should just "break" at the "F" or fire indicator.
And as the usual the stupid breaker cam, but we all live that one at one time or another. Nice thing is you have 50/50 shot at it and it doesn't require huge tear down.
Anyway let us know if she goes 'round the block...
Nice deal on the thread revival too!

[lavs4X4]

Well Satruday I got home from work early and decided it was time to take the Benly for a ride. Everything went great! I cruised along got up to 3 gear and roughly 30mph comfortable. Clutch seems to be good I had installed new discs when I did the rebuild. It did slip out of 2nd gear a few times though. When i would let off the gas in 2nd and then apply gas again it would rev like it was in neutral? I would then have to push the shifter back in gear. Could my clutch not be adjusted properly or is this a transmission issue?

I have the clutch adjusted just to the point where the kickstarter engages.

Making progress, but its always something.

I did have a blast riding this little bike though!

[Larzfromarz]

I think you'll have to live with the second gear popping out. I believe it to be indication of some wear on the gear parts. It requires splitting the case to inspect. Depending on how you plan to use the bike you might tolerate it until a better reason to tear down the entire engine (for convenience of doing everything at once). Other than that you can remove and invert the engine to remove just the lower half, but it becomes nearly as much work as the doing everything.
The PO probably used second gear hard, speed shifting and the like. It slipping out when unloaded is an indicator of wear. Just try to avoid doing as you described and it shouldn't get any worse.
The gears aren't too bad money wise and in my opinion is better than buying a used tranny with the same potential issues. Thorough inspection of the shift drum and forks is a good thing as well.

[Spokes]

But..before you tear down the engine.....

On the right hand side & top of the engine you will see a 14 mm bolt.

That "bolt" is your shift drum guide.

On the end of guide is a small tappered bushing. If that bushing is missing, your bike will tend to slip out of gear.

Remove this bolt carefully and see if the bushing is on the end..or in the index.

[lavs4X4]

Spokes, thank you! I will check that tonight. I really dont want to split the cases again.

[Larzfromarz]

Tear down is last resort for sure. I've not experienced in the same item as Spokes so check that out for sure...

[lavs4X4]

Spokes, I checked the 14mm bolt and it did no have the collar on it but it was down in the hole. I removed it with a magnet. Any tips for reinstall?

I changed the oil last night and plan to do a little more test riding before I pull it apart. I just want to make sure I have a real issue before tear down. When i split the case all the gears looked to be in great shape.

[Spokes]

Great.

Clean both the bushing and post and "gease" the two together. Any grease is ok.

There is only one last possibility. The shift shaft. I have had a worn shift shaft on one of my early builds. Once I replaced it..all was well. You can replace the shift shaft without breaking the engine down. The problem is that you have to buy another used shaft. All you can hope for is a low mileage unit.

IF you need to break the engine cases..remember that it can be split without removing the head.

You can take the bottom off with the engine up side down.

[lavs4X4]

I will use the grease trick tonight, ride, and report back. Thank again!

[Smithers]

Thread back from the dead indeed! Glad to hear you got'er up and back in service. It's the best feeling when they fire right up after you've been troubleshooting them. If you need any transmission pieces down the road we can help with that too.