Building a Honda CA95 from Scratch-Where's The Bike Now?

[Spokes]

I have not posted any pics lately because of a small snag. One of the engine studs that holds the cylinder jugs is stuck. Really stuck. I have tried all but one trick. Before I taunt anyone with what I am going to do, I did a little searching and found a big pile of garbage knowledge. That is someone suggested soaking an aluminum casing with a stuck steel stud in a nitric acid bath; "it won't hurt the aluminum" he write. NOTICE: Nitric acid will dissolve aluminum. IF you put aluminum in a strong nitric acid bath, you will not only dissolve the casing, but create a redish color toxic gas, inhale that and you could possibly be taking a dirt nap.

Having said that, I know from my own experience that a weak phosphoric acid solution does not harm aluminum too much. It basically turns it black from leaching the zinc from the alloy. This evening my engine case is soaking. If that does not work I will:

Chill the steel stud to -130F while warming the case to 180F....at the same time.

...I will explain how i did it after it works......

[Spokes]

Just in case anyone is following this part of the frozen metal post removal from a aluminum casting, I was successful in doing the task without destroying anything.

Basically I soaked the casting overnight in a weak phosphoric acid solution, then cleaned all the oil off of the back of the case. I brazed a nut on the end of the stud, heated the case (not really hot (maybe 200F) then with my 12volt impact wrench removed it.

I salvaged the stud by melting off the brazing and running a thread die over the threads. I filed and polished the stud and it is good to go.

There was one last scientific trick I wanted to mention. Keeping in mind that heat expands metal and cold shrinks metal, I was going to pre-warm the case and submerge the post in a dry ice and methanol mixture.

When you mix dry ice and isoproponal or methanol you will get a solution nearly as cold as liquid nitrogen. So the case would expand with heat, the stud would shrink with extreme cold. This is an old trick. But remember: always be careful when using extreme heat and cold-Always wear safety glasses and gloves.

[aaron7]

Cool info, but hope I never have to use it!

[Spokes]

I started with an engine as a starting point to build the CA95 Honda 150 from scratch. While the engine is certainly a multi step process, I am also collecting parts for the rest of the build. I feel that the hardest parts to find should be sought out first. The pics show a set of chrome gas tank panels, rubber knee pads, aftermarket plastic emblems and rubber grommets and nuts. These parts, with exception of the emblems came from a tank purchase on ebay. The tank showed a picture of the inside. The steel was "bubbled". Surface rust is one thing, "bubbled" rust is real bad news...But the side panels looked salvageble. The tank was scrap, but I got it for $9.99

The chrome panels have some bad chrome and a few dents. I used phosphoric acid dip for the bolts until they are clean, the panels will be sandbblasted, the dents pounded out and sanded smooth (you can sand steel smooth) then polished. At some point they will be sent to be rechromed. To cheat real bad with old rubber, I use rubber lubricant or spray UV protection to make them nice. Another trick is for small rubber parts, I use a ultra-sonic bath (a small one) with hot water and a teaspoon of Pinesol cleaner

I have seen "original emblem screws" on ebay, but not for me. You can ssimply tap them out with a 3mm tap and choose a common fastener of your choice. Finally, I have the ever dreaded fuel valve being delivered. I will make a seperate thread for that to show common mistakes.

Below are the pics as promised, There is a reflection of the wall clock and something else that makes the panels look worse than they are. The good chrome is just that shiney.

[Smithers]

Oooo I'll be looking forward to the fuel valve write-up! This will be a good education in choosing the correct chemicals and letting them do the work for you. If you break any whacky engine parts let me know as I have a parts engine apart in a box.

[Spokes]

Just an update on my progress. The engine I have started with is in really good condition for its age.(1965) I am still in the cleaning stage of all of the parts. I have the head "empty" of all parts and again all looks great.

This cylinder head has been the dirtiest ever. It has taken degreaser and hot water to start. Once it was clean enought to handle I pressure washed it.

One small trick is I soak the head in chrome wheel cleaner and boiling hot water (pint of chrome cleaner(not polish) to 1 gallon of boiling water) about 3 hrs. This solution also removed the deep oil stains on metal as well.

But alas, another problem. One of the fins was bent and cracked. Not the end of the world. I tried with care to tap it back in place and broke it off.

So, I will get some pics of before and after shots of the repair. A good fab shop should be able to weld it back on. If not, I am going to do a grinding trick that will make it look...acceptable to those who know what it should look like and to those that don't...ain't gonna know nuttin.

[Smithers]

Boy a cooling fins breaking off is a nightmare! I wouldn't waste the time looking for a guy to weld it back... sounds impossible on that type of casting and I know some insanely good welders. I quick grinding sounds appropriate! No one will ever know. We won't tell!

[Spokes]

The engine fin is small, so I might try something outragious. I will let all know how it turns out.

To all readers of this thread, I am looking for a frame for a 64-66 CA95 as I move forward with my build-up. The frame can be in any condition as long as it is straight. Shipping is no problem. I can send materials and instructions to wrap it up, then send fedex to come get it.

So if you have one, no title, rusted, dented, bare bones, sitting in back of the shed..let me know the price and we can go from there. I know there are some ebay frames, but just curious if any of the forum readers would have one.

Thanks all!

[Smithers]

How about something like this? I have the frame sitting in the back yard getting rained on right now. I wouldn't mind if it disappeared!

[Spokes]

Ouch...Soooo Close! That looks like a 1959-1963 Dream. Honda made a change after 1963. I will find out the difference between the years and move forward from there! The engine that I have is a 1965.

Thanks!

[Smithers]

Yeah it's an early one - diamond pattern on tank panels! And my other early one has square factory mufflers. I'll get the number off of it. We won't tell anyone it's an early model. =]

[Spokes]

Cool..The question is..and anything goes... Just the frame, bare bones? On a tight and slow budget, not in a hurry. So If it is just the frame, no forks..again, bare bones, no problemo. what do you estimate the weight will be?

If I can swing it..I would send out some shrink wrap, kind of like what one would wrap a pallet with, and all you would have to do is wrap it up tight so it is easy to handle. Personal shipping details will be off-line in private messages, and I also need a price.

Excited Thanks!

ps. I just bought a new, yes new, old stock original fuel bowl for......$10.00 including shipping. I may have to lie down for a while....LOL

[Smithers]

I'll trade you the frame for the fuel bowl.

[Spokes]

I should get the bowl in a few days. If it is exactly what "it is" then...deal on.

In the meantime I will do some homework on shipping rates.

Thanks Max.

[Smithers]

I was kidding about the bowl. We'll work it out. I would just like a donation for the forum costs if you want. I can make a shipping container or whatever too.