Jammed Throttle Grip

J ee · #1 01-02-2010, 03:37 PM

Hi - Am new to this forum (previous work on a CT90/1974 & CB750/1978) have just picked up a CA95/1966 with 22.5K miles on it which has been sitting for a couple of years.
Battery shot (trying usual sulfation removal), carb gunked up (responded well to cleaning with Yamaha carb cleaner)

Now find the Throttle grip pipe is jammed on the handle bar. Seems as if the internal thread has 'jumped' the throttle holder (or whatever that assembly is called).

Appreciate any suggestions for overcoming this.

Thanks too for all the great info provided throughout the forum.
J

Spokes · #2 01-02-2010, 05:10 PM

The first thing I suggest is to remove the aluminum control casing, then spray PB Blaster anywhere I could between the throttle pipe and the handlebar, while working it back and forth.

I would use a rubber mallet and gently tap the throttle pipe if need be, while working it back and forth.

J ee · #3 01-02-2010, 05:53 PM

Thanks for the quick response.
Have taken off the grip and the control bracket so with try Blaster from both ends & see if a few taps get things loose.

Smithers · #4 01-03-2010, 09:09 PM

Ahh I've seen this happen years ago. I think I just went crazy on it until it came off. Luckily mine didn't break. This was back in the early 90's and that's all I can remember about the experience

. I was helping a friend last week who was working on a Monkey 1969 CT70 which is the first year they made them. He just got the bike and of course the throttle was the first thing that needed fixing. Once you get them lubed and put back together they work really well.

Spokes · #5 01-04-2010, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smithers

Ahh I've seen this happen years ago. I think I just went crazy on it until it came off. Luckily mine didn't break. put back together they work really well.

Yes, bonkers with vice grips with a disassembly quest at any cost will work.

Usually, on my projects, the rust on the throttle pipe and a corroded aluminum slide can "marry" each other. I like PB Blaster as it is an acidic lube and acid likes to eat corrosion.

Before I embark on a wrench and destroy mission, I would remove the handlebar assembly and soak the throttle end in some phosphoric acid. You can buy phosphoric acid under the brand name of "Prep and Etch" at Home Depot for $16.00 per gallon, or "Milk Stone Remover" at the local Tractor Supply Store for $11.00 per gallon.

I rebuild a completely rusted and seized 1965 Honda Dream that sat in a barn in northern Ohio for 29yrs. and the above products were a big secret to my success.

Smithers · #6 01-05-2010, 07:35 AM

Hey good to know about the acid availability. I am a little leery about soaking things in acid.. of course good advice would be to continuously check the progress of the parts when you dip them! PB Blaster is some amazing stuff. I use it all the time. I just discovered the stuff maybe 2 years ago. How long has it been on the market?

Spokes · #7 01-05-2010, 08:18 AM

PB Blaster has been around as long as I can remember..40+ years. The phosphoric acid process dates back to Henry Ford and a process called "Phosphating". He found that pre-treating metal (before galvanizing) with a hot phosphoric solution (dipping) increased paint adhesion.

I have been on the technical side of automotive chemistry for years and simply apply it to my hobby. You can see the bike I did as I posted it last night.

I dilute both "Prep & Etch and/or Milkstone Remover" 50/50 with water and soak really rusted parts overnight, also I clean rusty gas tanks with it. I usually have to repaint the tank, so I leave it soak for a week and the paint falls off and the rust disolves and the acid leaves a coating. I don't neutralize the metal (you can with baking soda solution, but flash rust occurs instantly). If your going to store acid cleaned parts just flush them with PB Blaster, WD40 or light spray gun oil.

I reuse the acid many times over by filtering it thru coffee filters and storing in in plastic LABELED containers.

Another trick I use if I don't want to use acid, and that is a vibratory polisher with plastic media. You can take really bad rusty small parts and derust them without loosing metal with said polisher.

One last trick, if you want to remove paint from aluminum or steel small parts without scraping, just replace the plastic media with glass media.

By the way...most of us like phosphoric acid, we drink it. When it's mixed with cola and sugar it's called Pepsi....of Coke LOL

I was thinking of starting a new thread "tricks of the trade" there are tons of techniques to revive metal finishes

Smithers · #8 01-05-2010, 08:26 AM

How about posting that stuff over here in the Tool Time section? I can change it to be something like Shop Tools and Tips? Garage Tips and Tools? I've been thinking of this and that's why I started that area in the first place. Let me know. Maybe one section for Tools and another for Tips if you think it might grow that big? Or I can separate it if it does grow too big later.

http://www.fourwheelforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=5

Spokes · #9 01-05-2010, 08:52 AM

I could post my techniques anywhere you like, so pick one..(how about "Tricks Techniques & Tools" ?

Basically my techniques cover things like painting motorcycle engine parts, polishing metals, repairing fiberglass, and non fiberglass plastics (like Harley Bags), derusting, wire and lighting tricks and the like.

The bike I am starting on does not exsist....sort of.. The engine will be here on the 6th, but the rest of the bike parts will be found on ebay and put together using all of my tricks. Should be cool.