witch city bit**

[jleonardmca]

yeah, i was testing the resistance. I'm learning this as i go with a friend of mine who actually knows what he is talking about. looking for the proper ohms, but got nothing. anyway. found a couple coils to replace it. hopefully this works. thanks for all the help so far, sorry i haven't been able to keep up on the forum lately.

[Larzfromarz]

Here is what I like to do regarding testing of ignition systems particularly if my main interest is getting the motor run when in an unknown condition.
Because the Hondas are pretty simple this method can be used to run an engine (providing mechanicals and carburation is handled).
Previously I provided a diagram of a simple ignition system from my Clymers manual for 125-200cc twins. These bikes mostly use a single coil with two hi-tension leads for the spark plugs. Larger displacement engines probably use two coils, each with its own breaker set and a single hi-tension lead for its assigned cylinder.
I have found it easy to assemble the makings of an "external or by-pass" ignition system to by-pass the system on the bike. At some point you'll have troubleshoot the electrical system but now you want to know if the bike will run. By eliminating several unknowns, we can increase our chances of a successful light off of our unknown engine.
Of course do some basics first- oil and gas, compression. Clean/adjusted carb(s) and know the engine can be kicked over. A freshly charged battery of the proper voltage is required. (A quick note: this battery doesn't have to have much amp capacity as we are only using it to provide the spark. For ease of transport I use a smaller battery for this external circuit if I can). Several feet of 16 or 18 AWG sized wire (gage), and automotive condenser from Napa, a single pole single throw toggle switch, a 10 amp fuse and holder, and a known good ignition coil. I have all of these as spare parts and assembled them in a useful way. Simple create the circuit as laid out in the diagram. Connect the battery negative to cycle frame, the 10 amp fuse and holder from the positive side of the battery to one side of the SPST toggle switch. From the other side of the toggle switch connect a wire to the positive terminal on the coil. Connect a wire from the negative terminal of the coil to connection at the breaker points. You WILL remove the existing wire for the time being. Now find a bolt or place where you ground the case of the new condenser ( a lead with alligator clips will do too). The location is not important as I also like to extend the wire that come from the condenser fro flexibility (See photo).
Once you completed this simple circuit you now have a complete ignition system using known good parts, doesn't require a key (big bonus) and should run the engine. The diagram works with single and early twins but can be modified to work with later bikes with two coils. Flip the switch and verify that you get battery voltage at the breaker points (best measure with points open). If so you can now kick the bike over. I like to do so first with both plugs out, my external ignition connected, and the known good spark plugs laying on the cylinders. You can look for spark. If so, install plugs and proceed to try to start the bike.
The photo is the exact setup I used to run this single cyl Yamaha when the factory loom was trashed. In the picture I am using the yamaha coil installed in its home because I tested it satisfactorily. The rest is right from the diagram.
Also sorry to keep harping on the term "known good" but it is critical to use known good components to eliminate as many unknowns (do know where the mice chewed?). Once we know the motor will run we can then begin to troubleshoot the sub systems one by one and cure the bike's electrical ills.

[jleonardmca]

the bike runs. i took it for a ride last week. and no mice chewing. the last thing i did to it was put some shiny new points on. with those it ran again, and i drove around the block. i figured i would leave it on a good note and when i came back, i got nothing. no spark. electric start, nothing. kick, nothing. compression, yes, but not even a fart at the points. everything is sound mechanically. as far as i can tell.

[Larzfromarz]

Sounds like a battery. Didn't leave the key on did you?
Congrats though you know it runs!
L

[jleonardmca]

well the battery has some power. kind of abused it getting it to start, between jumping it and whatever. but its still good. the ground wire off it is painted over and looks a little beat up but should be fine. i am going in today or tomorrow to do a little more work but as of now, i tested the new coil. i made the complete circuit off of the bike and got sparks off the plugs. so thats a good thing. it really looks like the coil got fried from the key being in the "on" position and the points being connected. bad luck i guess. but it seems like the most likely cause of the problems. hopefully i can get a video posted in the next day or two, show this thing buzzing around salem. anyone in this area? or know anyone who works on these around here?