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Honda Dream CA160 The old black horse

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  #1  
Unread 08-28-2012, 06:34 PM
grubsie grubsie is offline
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Default Coil Problems?

I bought a resto project 1966 CA160 recently that I will be restoring as soon as I finish my '63 CA95 project. It is a non running bike that needs a ton of work. I can't stand having any motor that around me that does no run, so I bought some necessary parts just to hear it run before I tear it down. It needed the missing points and plate, condenser, stator and ignition switch. The original coil was in a box and had been disassembled somewhat (frame mounting bracket, spark plug wire clamps and spark plug wires). The previous owner had installed another coil (unknown brand) definitely not for this bike and used the spark plug wires from the original coil. I installed all the missing parts and kind of rebuilt the the original coil (installed the original spark plug wires without the missing brackets to hold them in place so I used tape and I re-installed the mounting bracket for the frame)

Got the points/timing adjusted close enough to be able to start the bike. Tested for spark and now the bike had spark at the plugs probably for the first time in a long time. The previous owner had the bike for 2 years and couldn't get spark. He just kept breaking and losing everything he touched.

Cleaned the carb a little bit and kickstarted. 2 kicks later it started right up. A little rough but running. This lasted approx 2 minutes, then it started backfiring a little, then firing only on one side then nothing. Pulled the plugs and kicked it through...no spark. I reached in to see if the wires were still in the coil. They were, but the coil was extremely hot. Especially the mounting hardware for the frame.

My question. Is this just a coil problem? Could it also have something to do with the rectifier? I want to try the coil from my CA95 (same coil) but afraid It might burn up. Any way to check these things? I read somewhere that if a rectifier is bad, the power can spike, so I don't want spike my CA95 coil. I still want to know if the cA160 rectifier is OK, so If I use my CA95 one instead, I won't know if the CA160 one is OK.

I am going to check the original coil again tomorrow to see if it has spark again now that it will be cooled down again.

Last edited by grubsie; 08-28-2012 at 06:48 PM.
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Unread 08-28-2012, 06:47 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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Your CA95 coil will work on your CA160. I have interchanged coils on both bikes.
As far as the coil getting hot and the bike loosing spark indicates a short somewhere in the coil. Check this forum (CA95)regarding coils. There is a lot of info. I think another member found a new 6V universal coil at JC Whitney (I think) that works well.

The rectifier affects charging and it does get hot.
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Unread 08-29-2012, 06:03 AM
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Larzfromarz Larzfromarz is offline
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Ditto to Spokes' statements. You can even build a set up to completely eliminate the factory stuff ( for test running ). Reduce to the minimum components, battery, coil and points/w cond. You bypass all mice harness that way. I've evaluated a couple of engine in this manner to see if putt putt happens.

I'd agree engines should be running if possible as a starting point.
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Unread 08-29-2012, 07:28 AM
grubsie grubsie is offline
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Thanks guys. Just put in the coil form my CA95. Started on first kick! Ran for about 15 minutes. Purred like a kitten. Engine was very smooth and ran quiet, sounded tight, no weird noises. Smoking like a pig...don't know if its due to needing a top end rebuild or if I accidentally put some 2 stroke premix in it. Smelled like burning oil. Will drain tank put in clean gas and check the compression. Will start it again to see the results then put away until I tear it down.
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Unread 08-30-2012, 05:01 AM
grubsie grubsie is offline
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Drained the gas fuel line and float bowl. Put in fresh gas. Started up ran for a while and after a little while, the smoke lessened but still smoking. Compression before starting is at 150 each cylinder. Thought maybe the air screw needed adjusting. Screw is broken off in carburetor. How do I get this out? Anybody ever tried to drill one out? I am assuming that the air screw was screwed all the way in then snapped off. Assuming that it was...and not getting proper air...could this attribute to the smoking? At 150 lbs compression...think maybe valve guides?
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Unread 08-30-2012, 07:21 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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I restored a 160 that sat in a barn for years...with no spark plugs in the engine. I preped the motor and started her up. Smoked bad then after just a few miles it cleared up. Run the engine several times before tearing it down It maybe just stuck rings. This weekend I will start another 160 that has sat 30yrs. I expect the same story. I don't think that the stuck needlevalve causes any smoke issues.

Getting the broken needlejet out of the carb body is tricky. If you can, very carefully epoxy a stem to the broken stud, try not to get any epoxy on the threads. Once cured you may just be able to unscrew it out.

Last edited by Spokes; 08-30-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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Unread 08-31-2012, 04:00 AM
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Larzfromarz Larzfromarz is offline
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Agreed, sticky/broken rings are the usual suspects. In the middle of such a repair on my 160.
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Unread 08-31-2012, 04:21 AM
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Larzfromarz Larzfromarz is offline
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If there is any of the air screw protruding beyond the threads you might be able to get a small Dremel cutting wheel in to make a slot for a standard screw driver. IF not you might also try (no kidding) a left handed drill bit and slow speed.
Additionally I'd heat the carb in the toaster oven a little as this might loosen the fit of the threads around the screw and make removal easier and wear gloves!
In any case be prepared to loose the carb body.
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