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| The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#16
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It's running!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's finally running, after how know how many years!!!!! (at least 5 in my hands..)
So it appears that the coil was the problem! The replacement coil from eBay was installed, and I rotated the cam 180 to put it back the way it was before I messed with it 2 weeks ago. Good spark. I hit the starter button and it started coughing and sputtering until VROOOOOOM! High RPM, so I shut it off. I checked the carb adjusments screws and started it again, finally closing in the low jet screw until it idled fine. I rechecked the points timing and the valve gaps, now it's running. Big problem though: it is smoking like hell, I mean 5 cigars worth in each exhaust like. Blue smoke too, not good. I was in the fog in 2 minutes. So now the question is: it it smoking because the rings are shot, the valves don't sit well, or because it sat for so long without running and the rings could be stuck and need a little time to re-seat correctly? In the end, removing the head to check the valves is 3/4 of the work to replace the rings... so. 
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#17
09-05-2010, 07:53 AM
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Allright! Congrats!
Now on to the oil burn. Before doing anything, drain the oil. All of the starting work has put gasoline in the oil. Drain the oil and measure the amount. One classic oil burn problem is over filling the crank. The volume needed is 950ml as stated on the engine case. Add back 800ml after the drain as there is residual oil in the engine. With the fresh oil in the crank, allow the bike to idle for a few minutes to see the reduction in blue smoke. Yes, if pulling the head for a valve job is immenent then replacing piston and rings is in order. Gotta to have a shop check the cylinder bore. I would install new pistons and have the cylinder bored to match. Do the oil thing first.
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#18
09-05-2010, 08:25 AM
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I'll change the oil then, as this one is a clean one already after I cleaned and repainted the engine. Can't hurt, and oil is cheap.
I remember that a compression test would tell me if it is either the valve or rings but I can't remember which one... I can do the valve seat lapping job myself but not the cylinders... Also, can the removal of the head and cylinder be done without completely removing the engine off the frame by removing the top support bolts and leave only one in the lower rear? May not be a good idea though....
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#19
09-05-2010, 10:03 AM
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The motor has to come out of the frame to remove the head.
Before you do anything, drain the oil and engage 1st gear. After removing the exhaust, take off the gear change leaver and remove the cover in front of where the clutch cable goes in. Dissconect the clutch cable and remove the cover that the points are conected to. To remove the bolt holding the auto advance mechanisum, take a 14mm ring wrench and get someone to hold on the rear brake. With the motor in gear and the rear brake locked on, give the wrench a sharp knock anticlock wise and the bolt will come out real easy. The same thing applies when removing the rotor, screw a rear wheel spindle into the rotor and put a bar or star screwdriver through the hole in the spindle and give it a sharp knock anticlock wise. Once this is done, you can dissconect the drive chain and everything else and remove the motor. Doing it this way makes things much easier as you have a resistance against your knocking to get the bolt undone and the rotor off. Sam. 
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#20
09-05-2010, 11:21 AM
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Good point on the bolt removal, Sam. I use my low torque impact wrench to do the trick. Why? Because the first time I pulled the motor off my bike I did not have advice like Sams and had to buy a low torque impact wrench!
The compression test that I remember is to add motor oil to the cylinder. If the compression increases it's rings, if not, it's valves. But, before tearing into the motor, do the oil change and check the volume as previously suggested. I would really run the engine for a short while just to loosen up the rings.
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#21
09-05-2010, 03:27 PM
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As Chip says, run the motor some before you tear it down, squirt some diesel oil through the plug holes or WD40 or other penetrating oil before you pull it down just in case you have stuck rings. Let it stand for a few days before you run it.
Sam.
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#23
09-06-2010, 01:06 PM
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Video
Here is a clip of the CA95 running and puffing... I think the general consent is that the rings are shot?..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FshdDJ9kp3w
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#26
09-06-2010, 05:01 PM
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At this point, rings or valve guides is academic. What was the mileage? How long did it sit? These engines were basically 10K mile engines. Higher mileage than that usually needed a top end job. Here in the states these motors were run pretty hard as well.
If you supply the parts, the company that I used to bore the cylinders to match new pistons and a complete valve job including installing new guides is: Cornett Racing Engines in Somerset KY. Their number is 606-678-2226 I sent them the cleaned engine parts with the new parts and they did nice work for fair money ($250.00) a couple of years ago. I even had them shave the head to make sure there was no warping. I also have used Bardol brand "No Smoke" oil additive. I usually don't recommend additives, but this one I have tried myself and found no clutch slip. Ration the additive to the crank volume. It does help some. Congrats on a very pretty bike. The extra work is well worth the effort.
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#28
09-07-2010, 06:59 AM
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Congrats on the engine running. That is one clean bike! The smoke issue is a shame but with these engines being so easy to tear down and rebuild you won't have a problem. Just be careful not to bend or break any of the cylinder head cooling fins while handling the head. And make sure to take notes on where things go while you are disassembling the cylinder from the engine.
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#30
09-08-2010, 06:34 AM
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Clean the carbon off the crown of the piston. You will see an arrow tip pointing to the front of the motor, also on there is the size of the piston.
If there is no marking, it will be a standard piston and you will require a plus .25mm oversize. If it has .25 then you will need .50 then .75 on up to maximum 1.00mm. If you're not sure, get the machine shop to measure the bore for you. How many miles has the motor done? Sam.
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