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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

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  #1  
Unread 02-08-2011, 05:28 AM
wwager wwager is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 11
Default newby restoration

I inherited a ca95e-3103499 and have a number of issues to deal with if anyone has some suggestions. I don't have an owners or service manual, so any information is new information. The speedo has only 45 miles on it and the bike was stored in a garage in Florida (with gas in the tank - all rusty). I think I will try the electrolysis method described in earlier posts.
New battery, but it won't crank. Kick starter turns the engine over easily.
Throttle cable doesn't move - probably frozen valve in carbuerator. Oil looks clean. Brake light works, front light doesn't - horn works.
Questions - best place to get a service manual?
does the starter have a solenoid? what do each of the poositions on the ignition switch mean?
I have tried to remove the petcock from the gas tank but the screw thread on outer cover is frozen - I am afraid to break it if I force it - any ideas?
I am sure I have a dozen more questions that I don't even know about yet.
Thanks in advance.
Walt
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  #2  
Unread 02-08-2011, 03:46 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,575
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New Battery, but won't crank.
Does this bike have a solinoid?


You will find the solinoid at the end of the positive cable to the battery. It is inside the frame. I have seen these solinoids freeze up with rust. Test: with ingnition on the first position "up" from the key insert position, press the start button and listen for a "click". If no sound, 1.) check the handlebar contact 2.) check the contacts 3.)replace or dissemble and clean the solinoid.

The throttle is stuck

Check the handlebar throttle slide 1st. Then check the cable for rust. Then check the carb slide. The reason the throttle is stuck may be all of the above or any one of problem areas

Switch Position

From the key insert position:

1 down. Battery and starting switch only
1 up. Daytime riding
2 up. nighttime riding
3 up. nighttime parking (tail light on only)

If you have much rust in the tank chances are the petcock is wasted. It is tough to get the screws loose. PB Blaster is good for rust. Spray and allow to sit. Phos & Etch, found at Home Depot works well at removing rust. BUT it will eat through weak spots or pin holes in the tank. It will also remove the paint if the tank is allowed to soak for more than 24hrs in a warm solution (5 to 1 ratio)

Last edited by Spokes; 02-08-2011 at 03:47 PM. Reason: sp
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  #3  
Unread 02-10-2011, 09:33 AM
Biz Biz is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 21
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I think you will be happy with the electrolysis method. A slow process, might take several rinsings and cleaning/replacing of the steel rods (I used threaded rod) but good results in the end, and it doesn't weaken the tank or attack paint. Do a google search on "electrolysis motorcycle gas tank" and a bunch of stuff will pop up.

I use an impact driver after screws have soaked. Worth its weight in gold!

Biz
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  #4  
Unread 02-11-2011, 05:45 AM
wwager wwager is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: florida
Posts: 11
Default Thanks

Thanks for the tips. I am a little behind on trying everything, but maybe this weekend.
I'll post an update on Monday.
Walt
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