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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

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  #106  
Unread 05-09-2014, 02:03 PM
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Colorado66 Colorado66 is offline
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Hi Guy's,
Thanks for all the replies, I will fine tune that throttle some more.

In the meantime, I'm having a heck of time trying to track down why the headlight wont come on.

The horn works, the brake lights work, the neutral light works.

Tested the headlight off the battery and it works.

Checked the grounds and they all seem to be fine.

I get 6.08 volts at the black wire that goes to the horn switch but nothing from the blue or the red wire.

Seems to me the black wire feeding the horn switch would carry the power for the horn and headlight (blue and red - high/low)
Otherwise how does power get fed to the headlight?

Here's a picture to help show what I'm talking about and also a picture of the switch when I was taking it apart for cleaning.



The black wire feeding power to the neutral light has a white stripe on it which is different that the plain black wire for the horn.
What do you guys think?
My light switch is a two (2) position switch and nothing happens in either position.



One more easy question for you guys.... is this fuel line connector just a press-in fit to the petcock? Should I JB weld it?


Thank you for all the replies and recommendations. You guys have been so helpful!
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  #107  
Unread 05-09-2014, 02:50 PM
VegeKev VegeKev is offline
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Have you got the ignition switch in the third position?
Kev
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  #108  
Unread 05-09-2014, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VegeKev View Post
Have you got the ignition switch in the third position?
Kev
Yes, I tried it there and all other positions.
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  #109  
Unread 05-09-2014, 04:20 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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I will try to get a picture of the inside of my CA95 headlight bucket and wiring.

In the meantime,

Power from the harness is connected to the switch. The two position switch transfers power to high or low beam only.

The headlight has three leads. The green wire that connects to the ground ring,
One wire with a single connection and one wire with a duplex connection.

The duplex connection receives the same color from the switch and the same color from the speedo high beam bulb.

The single headlight connector receives the same color from the switch.


Thus, when the ignition switch is at the 2 click up position the light illuminates and you have high low beam.

Looking at you picture, the high beam speedo indicator has a ground arrow pointed at it. This is not a ground.

I also trust that you have cleaned up the switch.
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  #110  
Unread 05-10-2014, 09:55 AM
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Well that makes sense it's not a ground now that I look at the picture. It obviously has to be a power feed for that bulb. Which means the three way green connector must be the power feed to the light switch making the red and blue wires the high/low. Does that seem right?
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  #111  
Unread 05-10-2014, 10:29 AM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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Yes. the blue wire with the duplex plug is high beam. The green wire from the speedometer high beam indicator attaches there as well as the blue(or green) wire from the switch.

I wired the headlight using original wiring, but I'm fairly sure that not all vintage Honda wiring may be the same color wire, for the same function, across all years.
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  #112  
Unread 05-10-2014, 07:06 PM
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Well I found the problem, bad ignition switch. Took it apart and cleaned the contacts but the bakelite backing crumbled putting it back together. Now the headlight works like a dream. Unfortunately the brake light doesn't work now. Found a replacement ignition switch on ebay so will give it a try when it gets here next week.
I was pretty happy seeing the headlight Spokes rebuilt come to life. High and low beam worked perfect
At least all the wiring is figured out now.

Has anyone ever put a side car on one of these little bikes? Any ideas on what could fit? And where to get one?
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  #113  
Unread 05-11-2014, 04:07 AM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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If the next switch is bad, I can have extra Bakelite and ignition parts as well. I've rebuild switches for other forum members.

Maybe other members have seen sidecars for the CA95/160 but I have not. The drawback is mounting the sidecar. Our bikes have a stamped frame whereas nearly all other bikes have tube frames.

Although you may want to look into Vespa sidecars.

I wish I had the skills to design build a sidecar mount and frame for these small bikes. I have the best fabricators at hand.
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  #114  
Unread 05-17-2014, 03:36 PM
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I appreciate the offer Spokes really nice of you.
It wasn't a bad ignition switch at all, it was assembler error.
When I pulled the ignition apart to get the broken key out I didn't pay attention to the orientation of the contacts. When the back up ignition arrived I took pictures as it was disassembled. Took mine apart and it my mistakes were obvious.
Now, all the electrical works as it should


You can see here I had two of the three ignition contacts in the wrong place.


Here is a picture of how they are supposed to be (using the wire clampdown as a reference point)


Today was also a big day because the engine started for the first time in 40 years! (video below)
I wasn't planning to start it up rather put gas in to check for leaks.
Had a slow drip where the fuel line connects to the carb. It's one of those compression fitting pieces like I posted earlier of the petcock.
Anyhow, it was leaking so I put a hose clamp on the gas line and epoxied the fitting into the carb.
Then I decided what the heck, I'll give it a kick.
You can see from the video I'm not sure what I'm doing and nervous trying to shut it down. I suspect I didn't have throttle control because the idle is set too high and no gas coming into the carb, so on top of it it was leaning out.

Can you guys offer some advise on starter carb settings?

Last edited by Colorado66; 05-17-2014 at 03:38 PM.
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  #115  
Unread 05-17-2014, 05:06 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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I'm sorry if I'm hoggin the answer board here, but I've had this very issue on every slide throttle CA95 & CA160 I've built.

At the handlebar:

1.) Make sure the throttle cable stop is not installed backwards in the handlebar.

2.) When re-assembling the throttle tube, tighten the throttle housing screws equally while your twisting the throttle, keeping in mind that your feeling for smooth cable wind and retract.

At the carb:

The slide has two slots. One long & one short. The carb has guide pins on both sides. The slide should rest deep into the carb barrel.

The center pin in the slide has multiple settings. Leave what ever setting you found the pin until you have a smooth throttle. If performance is good, leave it be. If the performance is sluggish (feels lean) adjust one notch up.

You only have two settings on the carb. One for idle, one for road performance.

Good Luck
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  #116  
Unread 05-18-2014, 08:23 AM
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ByTheLake ByTheLake is offline
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Hey Doug, the bike looks nice, and thanks for posting the video. I can attest to what Spokes added, too. I believe I've had my throttle slide in the carb backwards a few times, which will make it rev high the moment it starts. That might explain the runaway idle when it starts. Fortunately it is easily switched around, if that's the issue.
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  #117  
Unread 05-18-2014, 01:48 PM
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Chip, Kevin...You guys are so smart!
Thank you for the advise!!!

After taking the carb off and apart to check your suggestions It became apparent the idle screw was screwed too far in causing the idle to be high.

Here's a picture of how having the idle screw turned so far in made the slide open up which caused it to race like it did.



Here's a shot after turning the screw outwards to reduce the idle



And here's an retry from that failed start up



I'm itching to ride it now but still need to double check all the nuts and torques and lube all the fittings.
No leaks, so that's a good sign. Not sure how the shifting will perform. I also have never ridden or owned a street bike, so this is all new to me and taking my time.
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  #118  
Unread 05-18-2014, 05:04 PM
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The engine sounded nice in the latest video - glad it was a simple modification. These are simple little bikes, which adds to their appeal - just one carb - no balancing multiple carbs.

It'll be interesting to read of your trial runs - I suppose the brakes are adjusted and working?
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  #119  
Unread 05-20-2014, 04:55 AM
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Larzfromarz Larzfromarz is offline
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Awesome 66 things are looking and sounding great!
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  #120  
Unread 06-04-2014, 07:40 PM
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Its running and starts right off.no leaks but im getting squeeks. Seems after its ran a couple minutes something starts squeeking on the back wheel.
might just be the brakepads breaking in.? But I also get rub sound what seems to come from the chain. Any ideas you guys?
Thanks
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