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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas

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  #16  
Unread 12-08-2014, 04:11 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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The starter cable routes like this:


You will note the indent at the back of the engine. The starter wire goes though the indent and ends up in the frame cavity to connect to the starter solenoid.
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  #17  
Unread 12-08-2014, 04:27 PM
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Perfect spokes! I'm having a hard time shoving the cable through the detent into the cavity. Maybe I should have started in the cavity and went forward.
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  #18  
Unread 12-08-2014, 06:01 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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No, actually the cable fits the indentation when installing the engine. You may have to unbolt the engine at the frame and allow the engine to swing away from the frame just a bit. Loosen the head bolt mount but don't remove it. Then route the cable though and push the engine back into the frame and re install the bolts.
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  #19  
Unread 12-08-2014, 08:10 PM
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Ok! I will try that, thanks!
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  #20  
Unread 12-09-2014, 11:49 AM
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Again, I feel like a dummy. Thumbing thru my manual, ta da! There it is...
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  #21  
Unread 12-12-2014, 04:59 PM
Michaelclark50 Michaelclark50 is offline
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Here is a question about keys. My ignition switch has an "NA" key. Seems hard to find the original but I did find a generic blank. That will be easy enough to get ground. The steering lock and pump lock are another story. The steering lock has no letter designation, just a 4 digit number stamped on the face of the lock. The pump lock has no letter designation but a 2 digit number on the face of the lock.
Can anyone give me guidance on what blank type the steering and pump locks require?
Thanks,
Mike
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  #22  
Unread 12-12-2014, 05:19 PM
Spokes Spokes is offline
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originally the ignition key should match the steering lock.
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  #23  
Unread 12-12-2014, 05:41 PM
Michaelclark50 Michaelclark50 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokes View Post
originally the ignition key should match the steering lock.
That's what I was afraid of. I would love to find one that accepts the "NA" blank. Gives me an excuse to keep looking
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  #24  
Unread 12-13-2014, 04:37 PM
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I have two spare steering locks. One has an clearly legible NA key number but I don't have the key for it. I have another with a key and no number stamped on the lock or key (possibly a repop). I also have some honda key blanks. If you are interested in any of it let me know and Ill dig in my spares and get some pictures.
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  #25  
Unread 12-14-2014, 05:45 PM
Michaelclark50 Michaelclark50 is offline
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I am definitely interested in the "NA" steering lock. I have a key blank for it so that works out good. I'll PM you for the details. Thanks
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  #26  
Unread 12-15-2014, 01:49 PM
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Michael, I can't figure out how to send photos in the PM but heres what I have. My key blanks are generic repops. Ive never seen a blank like the original NA keys. I bought my original keys from this guy for $10/ea plus $2 shipping:

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-motorcycle-pa...keys/314919148

The key is NA6046 and its in his list of available keys. Shoot me another PM.
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  #27  
Unread 12-25-2014, 12:02 AM
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Not all NA keys are the same. I messed with Pinky's (my '60 Tokyo Rose) ignition and fork locks for a while until I found a match. I first found the correct NA606 key number, that I initially thought would open the locks; it did not. I've attached a pic of the differences. After significant research, I eventually found a NA626 key that did open the locks. Honda did that with their keys; skip numbers and make minute changes to the cut.

I had the same "key" problem with my '61 Benly (nicknamed Rusty) - a very late 1961, VIN CA951100968. The bike has matching fork and ignition locks, but has a bizarre key number B4603 (see attached pic) that nobody was able to match or had even heard of... and I contacted many Honda key experts. (Another untold Honda mystery, as is the Tokyo Rose color that they've never acknowledged selling.)

A generous eBay seller let me send him one of my locks for Rusty (I chose my fork lock because it was easier to remove) and he took the time to find a match to it in his many keys. I was flabbergasted at the kindness and generosity of this seller. You just don't find that many of these types of folks out there any more. He was able to find key NB603 that fit and opened both locks, but obviously the numbers are not an exact match. (Yet again we see the similarity in Honda's numbering scheme, as with Pinky.) One of the two keys he sent me worked more smoothly in the lock than did the other, but I was okay with that; just happy to have found a key that worked.

http://www.hondakeys.com/ is a good resource for Honda tire pump and ignition keys, not the eBay seller mentioned above, but a great guy nonetheless. He's provided me with ignition keys and was able to get me key 309 for the tire pump on Rusty.

I've also attached a pic of a tire pump key for your reference.

Hope this info proves helpful.
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File Type: jpg NA606key.jpg (52.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSC03360.jpg (204.9 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg earlyCA95tire-pump_key.jpg (262.8 KB, 4 views)

Last edited by frappy; 12-25-2014 at 11:19 PM. Reason: added pic of pump lock key
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  #28  
Unread 12-25-2014, 03:01 PM
Michaelclark50 Michaelclark50 is offline
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Thanks for the help and I will try your recommended seller for the lock key. My next issue is the horn. How the heck does that thing come apart? I tried a little gentle persuasion but was afraid of damaging it because I must be missing something. Has anyone posted on this topic before?
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  #29  
Unread 12-25-2014, 11:09 PM
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I have not pulled apart an "early" horn with the screw-on wire connectors like yours. I did pull apart a late horn and gentle persuasion is what it took to get my horn apart. Prising where the outside steel bell and the cast aluminum horn base meet is what I did. As I recall, I worked it right there at the white paint spot where the bell is dimpled to meet its mating surface on the cast horn base (see attached pic).

Also, be very careful of those brittle nylon insulators around the screw lugs where the horn wires attach. I'm not sure if there's an easy way to recreate/replace those if they get broken. Also, there's supposed to be a white rubber gasket or o-ring piece between the nylon insulators and the outside steel bell; yours are missing or rotted away (white rubber does that!). Attached is a horn that has one of its rubber insulator in place. I have not tried to disassemble this horn, because it's in such decent original condition.

I did not successfully restore my "late" CA95 horn (mentioned above) to good original working condition. I raised it from the dead by cleaning its contact points and got it to squak and freep, but not beep well like a proper 6V horn. However, maybe some more tweaking would help...?
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  #30  
Unread 12-26-2014, 05:39 AM
Michaelclark50 Michaelclark50 is offline
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I think that I just need be be a tad less gentle. I don't appear to have the indent your picture shows but there is a little gap on that side of the bell that I can get a good bite on. I was just afraid prying too hard since I assumed those insulators were fragile. The white gaskets are toast and I'll try to deal with that if I get the horn working once it's apart. Thanks again.
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