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The Honda CA95 / Benly 150 Restoration The little brother to the CA160 in our family of Hondas |
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#76
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Thanks Rob! Are you in Calgary? I love that town, especially during stampede.
Well, my first attempt at painting was so-so. I got a few runs and some dust. This is a single stage paint. Should I sand it down and repaint? or maybe a razor blade to take down the drips and sand with 1500 then a clear coat? What about fine sanding then apply a coat of wax? I'm not expecting this to be perfect or to achieve the results of a professional painter as that takes years of practice, but would like it to be smooth and not see the drips or dust. Glad I went with white, any other color would have shown my mistakes a lot more.
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#77
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If it was me, and I had enough thickness on, I'd rub it back carefully with a block and 800 wet/dry....just until you get back to niceness
Then 1200 before you do a clear coat. I'd really recommend a clear for toughness The white looks great, but I hope it doesn't snow there or you'll lose it! Kev. |
#78
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I'd sand your errors and then 600-800 the whole bike and try for another top coat. After that you can color sand and buff/polish...I think you'll be surprised.
probably should have posted this link before but a good place to learn basic techniques; http://search.eastwood.com/ppc/kevin...Fenm7AodHFwAJg |
#79
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Thanks for the advise guys. I ended up wet sanding with 800 then another couple coats of paint.
After reading up a little more on painting techniques and watching a bunch of YouTube videos it really made a difference. Probably the biggest was getting the air pressure right then wiping down with alcohol and a tack rag just before spraying. Made a world of difference. How long should I wait before applying the clear coat? I think I need to scuff it up with 1000 beforehand right?
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#80
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There should be a minimum drying time written on your paint can somewhere, the paint I use states min 24hr before re-coat.
Yep, knock the shine off the base coat with 800-1200 then the clear. Kev. |
#81
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Well, I'm finished painting and while it's far from perfect it'll do. Glad I tried it and can say I did it myself. But I think in the future I may leave this to the experts.
Now it's onto assembly
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#82
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Looks real good 66 . White is a great color to paint for a first time and you did well.
Often painting (in the early stages of experience) white is easiest and even good painters have to repaint from time to time. So time to enjoy the sweetie! |
#83
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I could use some help
This bikes wiring harness was all chewed up by mice when I got it so my disassembly pictures are incomplete and now have some wiring questions. Thought it would be easier to just post pictures with the questions. I appreciate any help and/or guidance No question here... just a progress picture
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#84
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Thanks man... appreciate the compliment
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#85
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Here is a picture of my stock bike but she has moved on...probably doesn show all you need wrt the frame wiring.
The solenoid; in a small way it doesn't matter which terminal of the two large ones goes to the battery or starter. Inside it is just a pair of contact points that get bridged by a copper plate when the solenoid is activated. The yellow/red and black wires matter the most and should not be reversed (duh color coded right?). I'll need to study the headlight picture but Spokes will probably beat me too it... |
#86
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The bike is looking great, Doug. It's always fun to watch a motorcycle go back together. The white color looks very nice, too.
Regarding the wiring, my pictures might not be much help, since I bought an aftermarket harness from overseas, and the manufacturer took creative liberties with some of the colors. Also, I used a general export C95 harness, which included the turn signal wiring. If I can find a few spare minutes, I'll review your pictures and comment, unless somebody else replies earlier. |
#87
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The tail light wires go through the frame grommet (to the outside of the frame) and then go back inside the frame through the same grommet that the battery cable/wire harness exits.
The 3 way headlight wire is indeed connected the headlight switch wire from the handlebar control. The blue wire happens to be your high beam. When your high beam is on, the second wire illuminates the high beam indicator in the speedometer. The starter solenoid connection is correct. Actually there is no right or wrong way to connect the battery/starter cable. I have dissected this switch in the past and found that it is an magnetic energized contact relay. |
#88
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It's going to be one sweet ride once your finished ! Take it to some car/bike shows or cruise-ins and you'll be amazed at the attention the bike will get . Even the grizzled old veteran Harley riders will stop and tell you about their first bike . Most likely a Honda !
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#89
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Thanks you all.. I got it wired today.
I have an older wiring diagram so some of the wires were just a little bit different color and gave me a little challenge. Nothing a multimeter couldn't figure out. BTL, I give you a lot of credit for installing that aftermarket harness. I picked one up for a c95 and couldn't make heads or tails. Took your advise and put in a new rectifier from Oregon Motorcycle Parts. Great service from those folks. So my next question is what do you all do for gaskets on the mufflers? Not the packing at the head rather the joint between the muffler and the downpipes?
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#90
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If you have original mufflers, then pull the red gasket from the old ones and re use them. Or try your luck with these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-C92-CA...182e64&vxp=mtr
If you are using the aftermarket type mufflers then no gasket is available as far as I know. I have used the aftermarket pipes in the past and they don't leak too bad. Perhaps try http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1077/overview/ |