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Unread 07-05-2013, 12:19 PM
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Larzfromarz Larzfromarz is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grubsie View Post
It was real fun trying to ride it up and down the street without the use of a clutch. (All the internals under the cover on the countershaft side are missing.
Ok, but that I'll assume you mean the clutch actuator and not the dynamo/flywheel and stator found underneath the left side engine cover.
That being said the clutch is a different issue than valve timing.
Your specific question;

Quote:
I can't seem to find anything on the web for help on the valve timing. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction. I do not want to tear the top end down before know what timing marks to look for.
I'd first answer by asking if you have a manual- Being old school I look at the manual before the interweb. Now folks look to the interweb for the manual.

Anyway, the timing marks, in this case the T = TDC and the F= Fire or breaker points opening, on the flywheel should line up with the pointer when the pistons are at the top of the stroke. Normally the points are set to open just briefly prior to TDC. If the cylinder head cover is off, and you are at or near TDC (T on the flywheel) for the left cylinder, the timing mark on the cam gear should be at the 12 O'clock position. It's often lightly stamped and may be difficult to spot but is a large "0". If the points breaker plate and advance mechanism are removed the drive pin for the advance mechanism should be pointed at the 6 O'clock position (contrary to some manuals).
Valve adjustments should be made only when the engine is cold, with cam chain adjusted and I usually tend to set them a bit loose. I think the book calls for .002" for both intake and exhaust and I am ok at .003.-005", especially for new engines.


Speaking of... I have found that when some of these engines get revived often times they smoke and sometimes continually. I believe that as time goes along folks "turn over the engine" or force stuck and stiff engines. As fragile as rings are they are easily broken as I found on my red CA.
The best test is a leakdown compression test, then/or a regular compression test. It should tell you if you have ring or valve problem. In either case you'll be pulling the top end down if you have a problem.
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